theres no given time to wetsand orange peel, you need to wetsand it as long as it takes to get the surface flat. just have to be careful and know when to stop or you will cut through the clear and ruin it. let me ask you what you are using to buff, especially brand new clear, do not use anything with wax or silicone in it. 3m and other companies make compounds specifically for buffing new top coats and they are wax and silicone free so they dont disturb the curing process.


that isnt going to work very well, you need a high speed buffer with torque and the proper buffing pads and material to get a superior gloss and remove scratches. hand glaze is a last step polish, i do a 3 stage buff, rubbing compound, finesse polishing compound to remove 1500 and finer scratches and then a foam pad polish for the shine, and if neccasary, a 4th stage hand glaze.





ding ding. the grey foam pads are good for polishing,since you are saying there is alot of orange peel i would also reccomend the white foam pads, they are cutting pads and help to cut through the surface distortion of clear to make it flatter, i use the white pads first with rubbing compound and finesse, and the grey pads with the foam pad polish. the clearcoat WILL heat up. you just have to practice and now when to stop and add more compound for cooling purposes, thats why you need a buffer with some torque cause if you cant heat the clear up it will not polish and shine very well. you should practice cause you dont want to heat the clear up to much or use to much pressure cause then you will cut through it or heat it up too much and that results in something you dont want.