Originally Posted by
EKRyan
Comptech intake has a hole in it for the hood prop and that allows it to suck in hot air. Go with a mugen replica if you want sound and carbon. If you want performance, just stay with the stock airbox. No intake offers enough gains to justify the $$.
How big is this hole? I can't imagine it would be big enough to interfere with the much larger, much higher flow path that the rest of the air travels through. What's the area (and shape) of the hole, and what's the area of the main inlet, and what's the temperature difference between the two? If it brings the temp up a degree, maybe two if the hole is big, is it an issue?
Originally Posted by
EKRyan
+1
The spoon X-Brace, like the rest of their bars, are hollow. They flex way too much to do anything.
How are you measuring the flex of the brace, and how do you know that the brace isn't working perfectly and some other part of the chassis is flexing?
I'm not sure why you think a hollow brace is bad...? It should be stiff enough to do the job obviously, but I'd rather have tubular braces than solid bars any day. Solid bars are much heavier for the same stiffness. There is a reason that roll cages aren't make with solid barstock. You make a solid one, and then I'll make a hollow one that outperforms it, weighs a third of yours, and costs less. Bracing is more about stiffness through proper design, not just making something out of solid metal because it feels hefty in your hand. There really isn't any reason braces need to be solid, it's just unnecessary overkill.
Originally Posted by
EKRyan
I'm not positive on this one, but I think corner balancing a 50/50 weight distributed car is pointless. I'm pretty sure it would be a waste of money for a street car.
Front/rear weight distribution has nothing to do with corner weighting. No matter what you do, you can't change that with corner weighting, that's just static weight and where it's located. Corner weighting is just spring adjustment (really height adjustment actually) so that you have the same spring force making contact with the ground on the left and right. You could make two diagonal corners longer than the other two, and the whole weight of the car would be supported on those two wheels, or three wheels, or whatever. That's the whole concept, you're trying to not have unequal force on different wheels, but you can't do anything about F/R weight distribution.. You can compensate a bit for uneven left/right chassis weight distribution if it is different in the front and the rear.
It isn't really important for a street car, unless you're doing a lot of canyon driving or whatever, but it's pretty cheap to do usually. You just need four scales and a level concrete floor. You obviously can't do it with a fixed height spring/damper setup either, unless you want to use shims or something like that.
I have access to a few electronically linked quad scale setups, so it's free because you're just doing coilover height adjustment.