B20 -
84 bore, 89 stroke.
Exactly the same specs otherwise. (Although there is a special B20 head with larger valves if I recall)

That makes the only major advantages in the B20 the added displacement, a slightly better bore/stroke combination, and a camshaft that isn't as radical in relation to the size of the engine, so it does produce a wider powerband, with a little less top end, but more overall useable power.

From the standpoint of getting more power without a VTEC head, a turbo is a relatively inexpensive upgrade path, and so is Nitrous. Bolt-ons will give you gains, but you'll get more for less overall with either of the first options.

Any open deck design could prove problems with boost, but fact is, cylinder pressures cause failures, not boost pressures. Worse yet, 99.99% of the time, it's not a matter of too much cylinder pressure, but instead, detonation trying to force the pistons the wrong way, which cause the cylinders to walk.

IF you were going to use one for boost, the lower the compression the better. Simply put, most factory designed, boosted cars, have 8.5:1 or lower compression ratios. There is a reason for that. I won't get into the complexities of static versus dyanmic compression, timing, etc., but there's a good article out there from some people who made over 600 whp on a stock sleeved B16, and it wasn't by accident.....

Low-Boost applications (up to about 15 lbs) designed for racing, may be as high as 9:1 or a little more, but most high-boost applications are much lower, some at or lower than 7:1.

IF you're looking to get around 200 hp, Nitrous will be the cheapest, easiest method. (About 1K to do it right)
IF you're looking for 170, bolt-ons may be the option of choice. (Less than Nitrous)
IF you want 250-300, then the Turbo is the option of choice. (About 2500 to do it right)

IF you want advice, just ask. Fabrik8 is a good source for info on safe tuning.