im building a b16a2

Pr3 rods p30 pistons
new acl king bearings all the way around
b16a2 crank
block guard
block honed to pistons dipped and decked
n1 crank pulley delete ps ac
OEm b16 springs valves retainers
supertech valve seals & keeps
GSR cams & gears
Aem rail adj fpr
Mr injector cleaned Oem injectors
hondata IM gasket on skunk2 IM
P2r thermal gasket on OEm throttle
dc headers
skunk2 cat back
ngk plugwires w new full new dizzy
ix plugs
rear block prelude adapter ports for oil catch can
CIA
new gaskets all the way around

getting Ramey to tune

sitting in gutted EF

Questoins ::::

hows this set up
projected CR
projected Torque hp
need adj cam gears?

is the gsr cams ok with b16 internals
hows the harmonics with gsr cam p30 pistons b16 inernals


YES i have read several several threads no one seems to have done this, either p30 in gsr or p30 b18 block b16 head all sorts of combos one tho http://www.utahhondas.net/index.php?topic=16243.0 is detailed

just looking for input / help / ideas

no funds everything thing plus somethings i might be forgetting is aready purchased and im in the process of building it now

 

also F1 racing stage 3 clutch 9.75 LBS flywheel ... giving them a whirl, read many reviews and dont seems too negitive

 

That's a pretty mild build, you're not going to make a lot of power over stock. You're only really adding a header, catback, thermal gaskets, and tune, and the rest is really just a stock B16. You could probably save money and use OEM parts wherever you can if they're less expensive, probably bearings for example. Stock Honda bearings are great, and can take much more abuse that you'll give them. And you can get them in select fit sizes, so you can blueprint everything very nicely.

I've heard mixed results about GSR cams in a B16, but on the optimistic side you're only going to gain a couple HP. Again, you're staying very close to a stock B16 build. Adjustable cam gears can give a little extra tuning flexibility, but make sure you get a good brand so you don't have to worry about reliability or hub slippage or a bad tooth geometry that eats timing belts. You will need adjustable cam gears if you're doing much with machining the head surface, or else your timing will be off.

Basically you're not doing anything but minor bolt on parts, so you're not going to see big power gains.





And why do you need a stage 3 clutch on an almost stock B16?

 

Because motherfucking race car

 

A stage 3 clutch is not a performance upgrade, unless you can make a stage 1 or 2 clutch slip. Which isn't going to happen.

 

Thanks a lot fabrik8 I agree it is a very mild build. But most aside from p30 pistons, IM & exhaust, & bearings all else were free, or cheap. which is why it's my engine combo. The clutch is 3 because its practically same price as 1-2 and I like to feel the clutch. Gsr cams have slightl higher lift than b16 and p30 high cr. some forums spoke of p30 like their cr was way high omg get upgrade head ect. So I was just wondering some projected results. Thanks is a lot guys

 

Say that again when you are in bumper to bumper traffic for a 10 mile back up

 

p30 pistons come out of a b16 so you won't see any change there. Fabrik8 already answered everything else. If it's an all motor build, I'd swap out the block for a b18 and use the p30 pistons or look into a b20 block.

 

Don't, just don't. You do all this for what? Maybe 180hp to the wheels? Stop being cheap and get a K.

 

This.

There's a reason my knee was so bad. Try a stage 3 in a 600hp car in HR traffic.

OP, Don't be a fucking idiot trying to be cool saying you have a Stage 3 clutch in your car if you don't really need it.