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Auto to Manual

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Old 01-26-2005 | 07:03 AM
  #21  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

Originally Posted by 00CivicGirl
is this some that is awfully extremely difficult to do? (doing the changeover not worrying at this point about the ECU) It sounds like a lot of stuff but overall, if it is, hell i might as well pay someone to do it as long as i have all the parts. I know it will take a few nights to get it done but im just lookin for an over all difficulty rating. we have found several cars cheap. hell wej ust bought a coupe for $500 but they are all automatics..we are having trouble finding a 5spd so we thought we would just do a converstion to one
it is expensive to go through a shop, it will be way cheapier to do it yourseld..the only real pain..is if you dont have the hasport mount or the holes arent already there for the pedals to come through..also there is a nut by the clutch pedal that you will have to remove or the car wont go in gear
Old 01-27-2005 | 03:10 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

Originally Posted by EEK
when i did the auto to manual, hasport did not make the mount..so i had to have some one cut the mount and move it about an inch maybe two
Me too! Weird.
Old 01-28-2005 | 07:53 PM
  #23  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

I converted my 95 civic from auto to a 5 spd before hasport had a mount out. How much does one of these mounts cost from Hasport? I ended up fabricating my own mount spacer, and it bolted up fine.

Also, the holes are already in the firewall, just unbolt that little black diamond shaped piece from the firewall where your clutch cylinder will go through. What you need to do is replace all of the pedals, brake and gas are connected, and I never had any problems with any bolts getting in the way of the clutch.
Also, the auto ecu works all you need to do is stuff that little white piece of plastic with the shift locations in the center console and fill in that big ass hole in the floor, an old liscense plate works nice... Dont turn the key without the clutch engaged, it will move the car. Unless you want to do things right and run new wires from the clutch pedal to the ecu for the clutch sensor.

Step by Step:

1. First break the axle nuts, usually they are a bastard to take off, there are a few tricks that you can use to make it really easy, but I dont want to be responsible for any deaths so good luck with that...

2. Jack up the car as high as you can, put it on jack stands because you will need to be working under the car somewhat.

3. Remove all of the auto bull crap, drain all the fluid from the tranny, and then take the axles out. Take out the center console and unbolt the auto shifter, and disconnect it from the auto tranny (there is a plate on the underside of the tranny that the auto shift linkage goes through, unbolt it and the bolts for the linkage will be exposed.)

4. Disconnect the starter.

5. Put your engine lift on the tranny by using some straps as a sling and unbolt the tranny from the engine.

6. Now that the tranny is out, you should install the pedals. I think its easier to install the brake and gas first, but this is still the hardest part of the whole thing because its so hard working in these positions, you should unbolt your fuse box, and move it aside, then take off the plastic piece on your steering column because it will free up space.

Put the master cylinder in position, and then bolt your clutch pedal to the studs that it pushed through the factory pre-drilled holes in your firewall and connect them.

7. Run the hydrolic lines across the firewall to the tranny side of the engine compartment. Its easy to run the lines, all the mounting positions are already there...

8. Make sure the 5 spd tramsmission has a starter on it because the auto starter and 5 spd starters are different. The auto starter will work to accomplish its goal, but the bolts dont line up right.

9. Next you need to take off the torque converter that should still be on the engine, and replace it with the flywheel/clutch and put the new tranny in. Bolt it up, to the engine and connect the shift linkage. Connect the axles and tighten the axle nuts back up.

10. Then you will need to drill 2 holes in the body behind the holes for the auto linkage to mount the shift linkage because the 5 spd linkage is a little bit longer, so about half an inch towards the trunk the same distance apart will work fine.

11. Do all the wiring you decide to do, you dont have to do much but if you want it to be very professional, you need to wire it so the car wont turn over unless the clutch is engaged, and you need to run a wire to the clip on the tranny for the reverse lights and so on, its not hard, if you use the auto ecu you will throw a check engine light because the auto tranny wont be responding...

12. Replace the oil in the tranny, 10w 30 is what I used, but you can buy stuff from Honda dealers that is speciffically made for the trannies and are supposed to decrease wear or something... $10.00 a bottle....

Piece of cake, did I miss anything? Do you want to do it your self, or do you want to pay someone to do it?
Old 01-31-2005 | 02:24 PM
  #24  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

dont forget the flywheel bolts are probably longer than the manual because a flywheel is usually a lot thicker than the traingular flexplate of the auto. you also need to accuire some pressure plate bolts. kinda sucks when you tear it all apart and realize you dont have these
Old 01-31-2005 | 06:22 PM
  #25  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

holy shit..you typed all that out for me...thanks!

i'm not sure on us doing or paying someone..it would be fun to do it but at the same time, its going to take time. if i pay someone, i know its going to be big $$$

Last edited by 00CivicGirl; 01-31-2005 at 06:36 PM.
Old 01-31-2005 | 06:40 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

heres the hasport mount




$175
Old 01-31-2005 | 08:03 PM
  #27  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

Damn. I hate seeing that piece for sale. Would've saved me a bunch of time and money.
Old 02-01-2005 | 06:33 PM
  #28  
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Default Re: Auto to Manual

I like the one I built better because its not a complete mount, it is just an extension to the stock one, so if the mount bushing ever goes bad you dont have to replace the whole thing, just get a new stock mount and bolt it up...
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