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light blue turbo miata...

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Old 02-22-2003, 10:08 PM
  #31  
SilverNB
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if im remembering correctly, wasnt that dyno run with the 2nd generation miata 1.8L? the compression on the 2nd gen miatas is higher, always heard the 1st gen motors took well to higher boost settings
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Old 02-22-2003, 11:15 PM
  #32  
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the 1.8 miata came out in 1994...they did not have a factory knock sensor and handled boost VERY well

the NB miata did come with a knock sensor as i believe. a very popular setup is the 1994-97 1.8 block with a 99 head boosted...this is a very high flowing setup with a strong bottom end

if i money though, i'd swap my 1.6 for a 2.0 FE3 motor and boost...the FE3 internals are stronger than the sr20det and can handle incredible amounts of boost
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Old 02-23-2003, 04:50 AM
  #33  
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Why not just unplug the knock sensor and turn the boost up??? and what turbo are they using on that graph.. because you'll said the turbo is a bottle neck.. so if its a bottleneck to flow how do you know when you are sacraficing too much heat for 1psi of boost??? if you go over 25psi on a t3 .63/.60 the gains of boost are goin to be out run by the heat produced.. Ive also heard this as being *crap* air.. just over heated to where there is barely any oxygen.. so it might not be the engine, and the small turbo???

Are these forged internals.. or how do you run 20psi on them???
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Old 02-23-2003, 08:01 AM
  #34  
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Way to go Dan! I'll get him for ya Dan. Rico is a BIG BULLY! LOL! In case you guys don't know Dan is old school like Shad said he races Dan's old car, this white Hatchie was one of the first if not the first hatch back in the day to get a B16 swpa back in the day in 98-99 around here at least. Samurai Motorsports did the swap back then . With a B16A in a light hatch back then that car was considered FAST! Old school Dan!
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Old 02-23-2003, 09:12 AM
  #35  
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Originally posted by litle****
Why not just unplug the knock sensor and turn the boost up??? and what turbo are they using on that graph.. because you'll said the turbo is a bottle neck.. so if its a bottleneck to flow how do you know when you are sacraficing too much heat for 1psi of boost??? if you go over 25psi on a t3 .63/.60 the gains of boost are goin to be out run by the heat produced.. Ive also heard this as being *crap* air.. just over heated to where there is barely any oxygen.. so it might not be the engine, and the small turbo???

Are these forged internals.. or how do you run 20psi on them???
the turbo thats suited ideally for the 1.8 is the t3/t04e .50/.63, and running 25 psi yields about 400 HP on stock internals...this is about the limit where things start breaking

actually, there's a guy in texas running a T66 in a 1.8 miata for a drag setup

the miata motor was originally designed to be turbocharged and has oil spray piston coolers and a very knock resistant combustion chamber design
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Old 02-23-2003, 04:15 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by litle****
Why not just unplug the knock sensor and turn the boost up??? and what turbo are they using on that graph.. because you'll said the turbo is a bottle neck.. so if its a bottleneck to flow how do you know when you are sacraficing too much heat for 1psi of boost??? if you go over 25psi on a t3 .63/.60 the gains of boost are goin to be out run by the heat produced.. Ive also heard this as being *crap* air.. just over heated to where there is barely any oxygen.. so it might not be the engine, and the small turbo???

Are these forged internals.. or how do you run 20psi on them???
the computer will pull ignition if you do that. which is what it would do anyway. Congrats on the car man. I was looking into FE3 for my car at one point....not gonna happen though.....lol
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Old 02-23-2003, 06:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally posted by azrakain
the computer will pull ignition if you do that. which is what it would do anyway. Congrats on the car man. I was looking into FE3 for my car at one point....not gonna happen though.....lol
why not? its not that expensive...
and its a BEAST
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