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ls all motor question

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Old 12-22-2010 | 06:45 AM
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Default ls all motor question

I'm going to do something different than ls/vtec or turbo and stay all motor LS just because...

JDM b16A P30 pistons work on stock ls rods, correct?

what cam should I get?

I've ready about crower 403 or something like that, any alternatives? I hear they break easily.
Old 12-22-2010 | 06:49 AM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

ok so ur trying to do something different but u want every1 else to tell you how to do it?
Old 12-22-2010 | 09:14 AM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

something that you don't see too often... ls/vtec and turbo are more common than an all motor buildup. yea it's been done, but not done to death. lets be constructive here and keep the hate for someone that cares.
Old 12-22-2010 | 09:18 AM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

all motor ls is a bad idea. it wont rev for anything without a vtec head.
Old 12-22-2010 | 09:32 AM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

If you want to be different put a P8R B20 head on it and build that.

Don't know what kind of head that is, look it up.
Old 12-22-2010 | 09:46 AM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

When I hear about people breaking cams I usually assume it's some type of operator error.
Old 12-22-2010 | 09:55 AM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

the p8r head is from an Ortho (spelling). The combustion chambers are larger and flow better than a LS. If my memory serves me right from when I looked into getting one, with an average p&p job at 8k rps they flow about the same as a stock b16. You're head will never flow as good as a vtec could, if you build it for high rps then it'll flow poorly at low rps due to the timing. Also the head has 33mm valves so to make a long story short good luck finding them. I personally did not find them readably available.

I have 403 and I really like them. They ideal well and are completely DDable. I would consider going to the 404s, but i like the smooth ideal. After going all motor b20 I would encourage you to not cheap out on a good p&p and a header. Because this motor flows so terrible I'd focus on getting air in and out of the motor and then worry about internal and the fuel system. just something to keep in mind. Take it with a grain of salt and do what you want it is your motor.
Old 12-22-2010 | 10:10 AM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

Originally Posted by jhholloway
the p8r head is from an Ortho (spelling). The combustion chambers are larger and flow better than a LS. If my memory serves me right from when I looked into getting one, with an average p&p job at 8k rps they flow about the same as a stock b16. You're head will never flow as good as a vtec could, if you build it for high rps then it'll flow poorly at low rps due to the timing. Also the head has 33mm valves so to make a long story short good luck finding them. I personally did not find them readably available.

I have 403 and I really like them. They ideal well and are completely DDable. I would consider going to the 404s, but i like the smooth ideal. After going all motor b20 I would encourage you to not cheap out on a good p&p and a header. Because this motor flows so terrible I'd focus on getting air in and out of the motor and then worry about internal and the fuel system. just something to keep in mind. Take it with a grain of salt and do what you want it is your motor.
or save ur self a bunch of money, time spent on finding parts, and go ls/vtec
Old 12-22-2010 | 05:20 PM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

I thought about ls/vtec but its an auto and i'd be running a vtec controller. less reliable that way and odds of finding a decent priced auto gsr Ecu aren't good.
Old 12-22-2010 | 05:26 PM
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Default Re: ls all motor question

Originally Posted by dcninja757
I thought about ls/vtec but its an auto and i'd be running a vtec controller. less reliable that way and odds of finding a decent priced auto gsr Ecu aren't good.
You can use a dime-a-dozen automatic P28, and tuning it is the same as anything else. I used to buy them for $20-25, convert them to manual (it's a 5 minute job) and then resell them for $75-100. Then people got a little smarter and the price for the automatic ECUs went up a little bit.

You'd only need a GSR ECU if you used a GSR head with the GSR (dual runner) intake manifold.


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