help me sort the teg/are there any shops in area that can corner weight my car?
02-14-2003, 02:59 PM
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This is going to spo
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help me sort the teg/are there any shops in area that can corner weight my car?
I got the ground control coilovers on the teg(450f/500r), and it's all screwed up now.
-turning left I'm pretty sure the front is bottoming out under heavy throttle..
-It still won't rotate with anything short of a full lift...
-It dives really hard and gets really squirrley under brakeing,
which I expected, but I'm still going to try to chase that down
I have the ride height set at 4.5 inches to the jack point front and 5 inches to the jack point in the back, which is exactly what I measured it as with the H&Rs. I think I'm going to try raising the front .5 and lowering the back .5 the left front.
I'm thinkin' I'll start with cornerweighting and alignment, and if it's still screwed up, maybe try some different rates....
oh, and if I lower the right rear, will that get some of the weight off the front left, where my fat assw is parked until I get it corner weighted?
-turning left I'm pretty sure the front is bottoming out under heavy throttle..
-It still won't rotate with anything short of a full lift...
-It dives really hard and gets really squirrley under brakeing,
which I expected, but I'm still going to try to chase that down
I have the ride height set at 4.5 inches to the jack point front and 5 inches to the jack point in the back, which is exactly what I measured it as with the H&Rs. I think I'm going to try raising the front .5 and lowering the back .5 the left front.
I'm thinkin' I'll start with cornerweighting and alignment, and if it's still screwed up, maybe try some different rates....
oh, and if I lower the right rear, will that get some of the weight off the front left, where my fat assw is parked until I get it corner weighted?
02-15-2003, 04:21 AM
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TEg
George at Eurosport (oceanfront VB) and Mike at Sports and Imports (ches) are the only shops I know that can cornerweight. I don't think Mike has his alignment mach. working right now, so try Eurosport. They mostly tool on P-cars, but they will slum it every now and again.
Jerry
George at Eurosport (oceanfront VB) and Mike at Sports and Imports (ches) are the only shops I know that can cornerweight. I don't think Mike has his alignment mach. working right now, so try Eurosport. They mostly tool on P-cars, but they will slum it every now and again.
Jerry
02-15-2003, 07:21 AM
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You want to set the ride height first before aligning your car. Since I am not familiar with your car I can't tell you what is a good setting, but the goal is to get low enough to have the added performance gain but not too low so that you will bottom out.
Next, ride around in the car for a while (at least a week or so) to let the suspension settle. If the car does move you can go back in and adjust the ride height.
Next, get the car aligned. Depending on how old your car is you may want to consider changing out various bushings in the suspension system. In my case, the new suspension (which is also made by Ground Control) pretty much used up whatever life was left in my stock lower control arm bushings and rear trailing arm bushings (as a result the car "wiggles" under hard load).
Once the car is aligned, get it corner weighted, preferably with you in the car. Keep in mind however that you may end up with a car that doesn't look even (i.e. the right side may look higher than the left, etc.). You want to make sure you take variable weight items out of your car that you don't intend to race with like spare tires, jacks, subwoofers, etc. as they apply to your car.
One thing you need to keep in mind is that the new suspension system on your car is totaly different than the stock one. And as such it will ride differently. When I say differently, that doesn't necessarily mean more harsh (since that is very subjective anyway). I don't know how much your car weighs, but the stiffer the spring rate on a light car will increase ride harshness. That is why, for example, if you take the spring rates on my car (450f/550r) and put them on Trip's car, Trip's car will ride harsher than mine because his car is lighter. I know this since I am more familiar with BMWs but this fact still applies to all cars.
Good luck.
Next, ride around in the car for a while (at least a week or so) to let the suspension settle. If the car does move you can go back in and adjust the ride height.
Next, get the car aligned. Depending on how old your car is you may want to consider changing out various bushings in the suspension system. In my case, the new suspension (which is also made by Ground Control) pretty much used up whatever life was left in my stock lower control arm bushings and rear trailing arm bushings (as a result the car "wiggles" under hard load).
Once the car is aligned, get it corner weighted, preferably with you in the car. Keep in mind however that you may end up with a car that doesn't look even (i.e. the right side may look higher than the left, etc.). You want to make sure you take variable weight items out of your car that you don't intend to race with like spare tires, jacks, subwoofers, etc. as they apply to your car.
One thing you need to keep in mind is that the new suspension system on your car is totaly different than the stock one. And as such it will ride differently. When I say differently, that doesn't necessarily mean more harsh (since that is very subjective anyway). I don't know how much your car weighs, but the stiffer the spring rate on a light car will increase ride harshness. That is why, for example, if you take the spring rates on my car (450f/550r) and put them on Trip's car, Trip's car will ride harsher than mine because his car is lighter. I know this since I am more familiar with BMWs but this fact still applies to all cars.
Good luck.
02-15-2003, 11:07 AM
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I've got 350 lb/in F, 400 lb/in rear GC's on my Si, and that is stiff as shit for street driving. I can't imagine 450/500 is too comfortable on the road. Should be great for the track though. What shocks are you using? I'm on Koni Sports (yellows) with the stock (although trimmed) bumpstops, and there's no second guessing when you bottom it out. It feels like the front end of the car is on a pogo-stick for a second or so. I didn't lower my car too aggressively. There's about 3/4" from tire to fender, and it will still bottom out in a real tight corner if I'm on the brakes too late. If you're bottom out while on the gas, that's odd, and you're probably too low.
Rotation (or lack thereof) can be controlled by too many factors. What rear lower sway bar are you using? I've got the adjustable Comptech unit on it's stiffest setting, and I still have to lift to get the car to rotate. Tire pressure and alignment are big parts of the equation too. The simple fact is FWD Hondas don't like to rotate, and when they do, you're riding a fine line between gripping, and a complete spin out.
Just sell your soul and go RWD... I did
. One of the best choices I've made. Throttle induced oversteer is soooo much more controlable and enjoyable than lift-oversteer. Now I've just gotta sell the Civic.
Rotation (or lack thereof) can be controlled by too many factors. What rear lower sway bar are you using? I've got the adjustable Comptech unit on it's stiffest setting, and I still have to lift to get the car to rotate. Tire pressure and alignment are big parts of the equation too. The simple fact is FWD Hondas don't like to rotate, and when they do, you're riding a fine line between gripping, and a complete spin out.
Just sell your soul and go RWD... I did
. One of the best choices I've made. Throttle induced oversteer is soooo much more controlable and enjoyable than lift-oversteer. Now I've just gotta sell the Civic.
02-15-2003, 03:07 PM
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That 500 rear spring does not sound stiff enough in the back.
Many hondas have a leverage ratio that requires a stiff rear spring. His 500 rear is similiar to a 400 (guestimate) on a car with a 1:1 spring ratio in the back.
Many hondas have a leverage ratio that requires a stiff rear spring. His 500 rear is similiar to a 400 (guestimate) on a car with a 1:1 spring ratio in the back.
02-16-2003, 03:46 AM
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Originally posted by jmciver
You want to set the ride height first before aligning your car. Since I am not familiar with your car I can't tell you what is a good setting, but the goal is to get low enough to have the added performance gain but not too low so that you will bottom out.
Next, ride around in the car for a while (at least a week or so) to let the suspension settle. If the car does move you can go back in and adjust the ride height.
Next, get the car aligned. Depending on how old your car is you may want to consider changing out various bushings in the suspension system. In my case, the new suspension (which is also made by Ground Control) pretty much used up whatever life was left in my stock lower control arm bushings and rear trailing arm bushings (as a result the car "wiggles" under hard load).
Once the car is aligned, get it corner weighted, preferably with you in the car. Keep in mind however that you may end up with a car that doesn't look even (i.e. the right side may look higher than the left, etc.). You want to make sure you take variable weight items out of your car that you don't intend to race with like spare tires, jacks, subwoofers, etc. as they apply to your car.
One thing you need to keep in mind is that the new suspension system on your car is totaly different than the stock one. And as such it will ride differently. When I say differently, that doesn't necessarily mean more harsh (since that is very subjective anyway). I don't know how much your car weighs, but the stiffer the spring rate on a light car will increase ride harshness. That is why, for example, if you take the spring rates on my car (450f/550r) and put them on Trip's car, Trip's car will ride harsher than mine because his car is lighter. I know this since I am more familiar with BMWs but this fact still applies to all cars.
Good luck.
You want to set the ride height first before aligning your car. Since I am not familiar with your car I can't tell you what is a good setting, but the goal is to get low enough to have the added performance gain but not too low so that you will bottom out.
Next, ride around in the car for a while (at least a week or so) to let the suspension settle. If the car does move you can go back in and adjust the ride height.
Next, get the car aligned. Depending on how old your car is you may want to consider changing out various bushings in the suspension system. In my case, the new suspension (which is also made by Ground Control) pretty much used up whatever life was left in my stock lower control arm bushings and rear trailing arm bushings (as a result the car "wiggles" under hard load).
Once the car is aligned, get it corner weighted, preferably with you in the car. Keep in mind however that you may end up with a car that doesn't look even (i.e. the right side may look higher than the left, etc.). You want to make sure you take variable weight items out of your car that you don't intend to race with like spare tires, jacks, subwoofers, etc. as they apply to your car.
One thing you need to keep in mind is that the new suspension system on your car is totaly different than the stock one. And as such it will ride differently. When I say differently, that doesn't necessarily mean more harsh (since that is very subjective anyway). I don't know how much your car weighs, but the stiffer the spring rate on a light car will increase ride harshness. That is why, for example, if you take the spring rates on my car (450f/550r) and put them on Trip's car, Trip's car will ride harsher than mine because his car is lighter. I know this since I am more familiar with BMWs but this fact still applies to all cars.
Good luck.
02-16-2003, 05:01 AM
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Originally posted by cosmosM3
I think you will want to get the cornerweighting done and then the alignment. Even the small adjustments on the corners will move the camber or toe. Go to Eurosport this doesn't seem like a do-it-yourself job
I think you will want to get the cornerweighting done and then the alignment. Even the small adjustments on the corners will move the camber or toe. Go to Eurosport this doesn't seem like a do-it-yourself job
