I guess I've been lucky then for 6 years. I've always set it by clocking the tensioner pulley over so that the holes are perpendicular and on top or bottom.

 

Not trying to start an arguement here but I've done dozens setting the tension to it's factory spec with the proper tools and never seen one that wasn't way out of spec on the loose side with the pulley clocked at 12:00 (6-bolt) or 6:00 (7 Bolt) They always end up about 30* (+/- 10*) past perpendicular for me. The tool is $20 and with the correct tool it's no harder (if nothing else easier) to do the proper way than any ghetto screwdriver tricks. The prybar shit works for a serpentine belt but I wouldn't trust the safety of my motor to that. Do what you want but IMO the $20 tool is worth it. If you've gone this long your belt is probably ok, but something to keep in mind next time you do it.

 

There is no arguement, I just used what worked the last time. The next time it's apart I will try and locate a timing tool, and check the tension. I did replace all the timing parts with oem pieces recently for some peace of mind.

 

I used the screw driver trick, I've never done a timing belt on a 4g63 before so Im kind of worried about it. I'm probably going to make an 8mm x 1.25 threaded rod to ensure that everything is properly set. With the tensioner pulley, how do you judge when you have put proper tension on the belt? I read that it was when the you feel the grenade pen loosen up is when you have adequate tension. Then test it with a 5/32" drill bit. Not sure if this is correct, any advice?

 

Yeah you check the clearance of the piston off the top of my head 5/32 sounds right

 

Now it all makes sense why DSMs break so much.

just messin

 

here ya go.i have myself used a long screw driver years ago and bought this matco one two years ago.

MATCO MITSU TENSION PULLEY WRENCH

Designed to allow easy adjustment of camshaft spur belts with pin-holed idler pulleys
Grips pulley center, rotates it around the off center retaining bolt, allowing for adjustment
Heat treated allow steel, black finish, soft grip handle
Cover most 1990 and later Mitsubishi 4- and 6-cylinder engines (except minivan applications)

Part#: MST9870 Price: $25.70

 

Now if I could only get one of those by Sat that would be nice....too bad im not buying one from mitsu

 

get the little one that goes on a 1/4" ratchet. 3sx performance sells it. It's a lot nicer because you can work around the pulley easier with it to get easier more usable angles for prying.

 

yup, thats the one I have and use.

The tool above looks like the one we use for the volkswagens, lol.

I actually was trying to get the threaded rod deal but ended up with the pulley tensioner one instead...but then realized I would need it to in the future, upon which I did multiple times!

BTW be very careful with the threaded rod you choose, I chose one that was a cheap material, and the bastard mushroomed on the end from the tension(doing cam installs without dissassembling lower cover assemblies..) produced by the tensioner, then sheared off when I went to remove it. Talk about a bitch to fix, getting that mount bracket off is no fun. The one I have now I think came from roadrace, its a stud/welded nut, but I've prolly used it about 30 times with no ill effects....