3K budget -
Slicks = $300+
Wheels for slicks = $375
Omni Drag Coilovers (Read CHEAP) = $900
Let's not forget you now need a camber kit for the front and rear, and LCA's for the rear, might as well do suspension bushings while you're at it.....

So much for 3K..... You've eaten 2K in the suspension..... You'd be borderline. The motor mods needed - well......

(Yes, you can spend time and shop used, we all do it, but the point is the stuff ain't cheap, and buying used suspension parts, for most, is taking your life in your hands when you're planning to run 100 across the other end!)

 

If you want 13's on a 3K budget -

Start with stripping everything inside the car out that isn't needed.
Manual Steering = Less Weight
Empty the fuel tank - There's a plug in the bottom.
Make sure it's a car without a sunroof. Si's are heavy pigs compared with Cx and Vx versions. Some because of sound deadening, tar, etc., and some because of the sunroof.
Remove the A/C, brackets, lines, condenser, etc.
Remove the Power Steering Lines, Resevoir, pump, brackets, etc.

From there, bolt on a good intake for the purpose. ($300)
You'll want a decent 4-1 header ($300)
Have the head milled .090 ($110 for gaskets/bolts, $90 for milling)
Crome chipped computer + Tune should run about $800.
B16 Transmission with LSD should run about $800.
That leaves about $600 if you want slicks + Wheels, or just suspension upgrades....

 

Is this what you did with your car, HondaRules?

 

All you need in your car is a Seat, Wheel, shifter, and Tach!!

 

I meant to say you would need to convert the motor to obd-1, and yes, it is true. In fact, you're saying the same thing i was trying to say two posts above.

As far as the numbers on drag racing i stand by my statement. I was refering to street tires, which on a decently powered honda, will show numbers in the 1/8th that are not as impressive in the 1/4.

 

How is this not the same thing you said?? Aside from my one misprint, i don't believe anything ive said to be inaccurate.

 

yea thats what im planning on doing, like i said in my first post, this is not a dd so i dont need really anything in the interior, how much weight do you think all the interior is that i will be taking out?

 

Enough to lose 300-400 lbs on most cars, everything included.

 

that stuff i have to disagree with.

the best headers for any situation that remains N/A , be it a nitrous car or not, is not gonna be cheaper than 600 used, unless its dented or damaged. examples being hytech, DTR, SMSP etc....

the best intake ever is a INTAKE TUBE WITH A VELOCITY STACK. especially if its just a race car. direct air makes more power, so coming through a filter is robbing HP....

and crome should NOT COST 800 bucks... 800 bucks is more than hondata purchased, and tuned by the best tuners in the area. crome is cheap, hell you download it off the internet. for free. and ive heard of local shops chipping ecus for 100 bucks.... tuning will not break 700 bucks....


but other than that sounds like a plan.

my car was gutted entirely, i took out all the SD, and tar, and excess shit, but put carpet and shit back in afterwards due to it being my car i drove every day.

 

I understand what you're saying, but ITB's with Velocity stacks are very expensive. A JG Edelbrock, or Skunk2 intake is not real expensive, and will show good power gains.

And while a DTR or SMSP header will have larger gains (In the range of 3-5 hp more on a stock bottom end, a bit better on a more built car) Even a DC Sports will show 8-10 hp of improvement (especially with tuning), which is all that's needed to get to the performance level he wants, and to do it on a budget....

Crome ecu, already chipped, $140. Couple hours dyno time and tuning, $650 is a pretty good estimate most places from what I've seen.....And tuning will likely get as much as anything else....

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