Why does that matter at the moment, that's not the point of the thread. And just for sake of discussion, have you modeled and calculated the natural frequency of your car?

Tire choice affects natural frequency, because the tire is another spring and damper in series with the suspension's spring and damper. I'm assuming that's where he's going. It's a bit off topic though, yeah.

 

No I know that and was being sarcastic. The site he posted has been around for a while and made my head hurt when looking at it 4-5 years ago when setting up our CRX. Then I decided to be a lemming and follow Chris Shenfields set up (he's the creator of the ST spec civic setup). And it worked well enough to come in 2nd at the 2006 Solo 2 National event in Atlanta. The guy that beet me went on to win the big show in Topeka that year. I edged him out on Sunday but it wasn't enough to over come the gap he had on me from Sat. Oh well.

 

all that info is completely understandable. With every THING there is a frequency at which it resonates, even a suspension. So you do all the measuring of weights and motion ratios and mounting points and you can find if your car is setup properly for your desired result.


An autox car is a higher natural frequency in its suspension so it can change directions more often. So that means stiffer springs (to a point) and lighter weights.

If you had the sword from the stone in your hand and needed to move it faster, you could make it lighter (lighter wheels and tires- less unsprung weight), or make your arms stronger (springs/shocks/sways).

The hard part is measuring all that crap.

 

Your an engineering student..

 

HOLLY FUCK YOU MEAN TO TELL ME IF I HAVE A STIFFER SUSPENSION AND PUT LIGHTWEIGHT PARTS ON MY CAR IT WILL BE FASTERR??????????????????????????

 

Did she give him $10k?

 

All that is common knowledge, but why are we talking about it here?

 

Because the proper combo between weight reduction and the right spring with the (here's the hard part) properly valved shock will net you a better increase in times than power adders.

You can always do chassis bracing, it's obvious when you go overboard with that... Do struts, quarterpanels, subframe front and rear and it'll make the job easier for your nice new suspensions parts.

 

Engineering calculations on something like this are next to worthless. Engineering calculations generally rely on highly conservative assumptions designed to make sure whatever it is doesn't break. More detailed calculations make it cheaper/lighter/etc, but are still highly conservative. You can't really do the same with car handling. Someone probably did calcs to pick the initial springs and shocks*, but as an engineer (a real-world engineer, not a student), I can assure you that it was all trial and error from that point on until the sweet spot was found.

* said calcs were probably based off a similar car and scaled up/down, vice calculated from scratch.

 

Yep, because everyone drives differently