nice rigs, here's mine if you didnt see my post...
couple years ago...


then...

only piece of glass that survived haha


During repair....

little added safety...

finished product

 

Fuck adversity. If you roll, add more rollbar support.

Pretty freakin' awesome!

 

Did you get that off craigslist by any chance?

Saw one that looked just like that for sale on there and the add said it just needed a engine.

Im picking mine up today after the guy has the breathalyzer taken out

 

yessir i did
i had a motor for it already, so that wasnt really a big deal

got great deal on it

 

Thats awesome. Yea according to the owner of the one I bought "It needs a transmission. Its stuck in 3rd gear."

He never thought to check the fuse for the TCM. Fuse blew putting the transmission into limp mode

Go a good deal on mine too haha

 

thats awesome
you plan on doing anything to it?

 

Not anytime soon. For right now its getting a cooler/rod rack on the front and some body work before paint.

Later on when its time for new tires Im gonna go with some 35" or 36". May have to do some trimming to fit the 36"s though.

Its only a beach truck so no worries on flex. Just turning radius.

 

'91 explorer xlt. havent done much to it besides cleaned it and put on rain vents.


anyone know why just my temp and gas guage dont work? gas guage is 1/4 with engine off and empty with engine on. no matter how much is in the tank

 

maybe cuz its a ford ?

 

1. Check the input to the cluster from the sending unit on the Yellow/White (YE/WH) wire. It should read 22 ohms at empty and 145 ohms full.

2. If the sender tests OK, check for power on the Red/Yellow (RD/YE) wire from fuse 11 at the cluster.

3. Check the Black/White (BK/WH) wire for ground.

4. If the signal in and the power and ground all test OK, replace the fuel gauge/anti-slosh module.




1. Disconnect the Red/White wire from the temperature sending unit, then turn the key on. The temperature gauge should peg below the cold mark. If it does, the sending unit is likely bad. Check resistance between the sender terminal and the base of the sender. With the engine cold, resistance should be 77 ohms or higher. Replace the sender if resistance is lower than 77 ohms with a cold engine.

2. If the gauge still reads above the cold mark with the sender disconnected, check the Red/White wire for a short to ground, and if no continuity to ground is found, replace the temperature gauge.

Also=since both are in your dash cluster-your cluster could have simply shit the bed on you....