Fabrik8

There are big problems with having a larger throttle body and plenum without having a new tune. You're increasing air flow into the engine for any given throttle position and manifold pressure, and also decreasing flow velocity at the same time. So if you change the mass flow and the velocity and have very similar sensor readings, how can you expect the stock tune to perform properly...?

TRQLESS

I understand what your saying and agree with that. Tuning your car is key and is the best idea. I have done this countless times to numerous honda's and they don't run like that when installed properly. They run and drive just fine with the stock tune. Are you going to get a lot out of it? Of course not. What i'm saying is that it's not the tune that is making the car do this. I'm pretty sure it's the TPS not calibrated properly. Especially since he swapped his stock one over to the new tb.

All i'm suggesting is to fix the TPS and any check engine lights before taking the car to the tuner. Plus, they won't touch the car if it has a CEL for a TPS.

And here is a how to on setting the TPS voltage in case you do not know off hand : http://hondaswap.com/~pills/obd1guide.html

Everything he has listed is a red flag for the TPS not being set correctly.

94dxcoupe

Possibly your intake air temp and purge control solenoid connectors are switched? Seen this happen a million times.. Maybe also your TPS and Map plugs are switched. Here's a step by step troubleshoot for the intake air temp code: http://www.hamotorsports.com/intake-...re-sensor.html . The fuel code is prob cause these sensors are mix matched.. Good luck

TRex

Alright, I have a small question. I looked at that page about tuning the tps that trqless put up and no mean to be picky, but he doesn't give the exact method to testing it, he just said what wires to look at and what they're supposed to read. My civic is idling at 2500 rpm solid no fluctuation and I cannot get a remotely close reading to the ones it's supposed to be when I test the tps wires. My CEL is on for TPS so I know it's out of calibration. I replaced it not knowing it had to be calibrated and now that I know it does I've tried literally everything. I start the car the idle goes to 1500 then in about thirty seconds builds up to 2500 and holds it. Even when the car's hot it won't go down. It's so annoying, any ideas?

wright

did you read the article? I did and it give you the steps to set the correct TPS location. From the link "use a Voltmeter or similar device. Ground one lead on the chassis somewhere and use touch the (+) lead to the pin on the TPS (should be the center pin) and measure the voltage. Rotate it until it reads .5 volts, then tighten it down. Have a friend press the gas pedal to the floor and also check that WOT reads 4.5 volts."

What do you not understand? Take a volt meter and touch the pin at the ecu D11 with the red lead from the meter. Then ground the black lead from the meter to a good known ground. Then turn the cars ignition to the on position. After that you should look at the reading on the meter, without pressing the gas you should see .5 volts. Then with the gas at WOT you should see no more than 4.5volts. If the reading are not with in spec you have to turn the TPS to get the proper results for closed and WOT.