Boost gauge. Mechanical or electrical?
To my knowledge, with an electrical boost gauge you cannot read the vac level (the zone below 0 that the needle will rest somewhere in when no boost is being applied in acceleration). I have yet to come across an electrical boost gauge that can read the vac level. With a mechanical one you can read the vac level.
I have tried 3 different mechanical gauges (2 Autometers, OBX). The Autometers were the better ones. They read about 1.5 psi low. The OBX wasn't even close.
I have tried 3 different electronic gauges (Greddy, Autometer, Defi) and they are all pretty close in accuracy. The Greddy was pretty much exact. The Autometer read about .5 psi high (which I prefer to reading low). Defi was just a tad under. I based all of these readings off the readings my ECU was receiving via my laptop.
I have tried 3 different electronic gauges (Greddy, Autometer, Defi) and they are all pretty close in accuracy. The Greddy was pretty much exact. The Autometer read about .5 psi high (which I prefer to reading low). Defi was just a tad under. I based all of these readings off the readings my ECU was receiving via my laptop.
I have Greddy Electric Boost and EGT in my DSM and both are damn near perfect. I read 0 at Zero boost, but the only bad part is having to do the math when having to convert Bar to PSI.
I have a whole bunch of autometer mechanical in the GN and half i don't even bother looking at cause they are that inacurate.
I have a whole bunch of autometer mechanical in the GN and half i don't even bother looking at cause they are that inacurate.
Originally Posted by 1max2nv
I'm getting mixed review on which one is more accurate and with quicker reading. Anyone tried both and can give me an honest opinion?
Accuracy is determined in the calibration and the quality of the gauge. A mechanical gauge will always react faster (So long as things that would slow it down are removed such as a weak rubber line to it being replaced wtih a silicone and the like) because there is no time used on being read by a sender, then the signal sent, then the signal received and displayed. But on the flipside, most of these mechanical gauge are lower quality than the electrical ones meaning they are less accurate. If I had the money, I'd go Defi but I don't know what I'll end up doing, I have a problem with $1000 for gauges.
-Andy
-Andy
I called up AutoMeter. Their eletrical gauge would recal. itself everytime you power up. Overtime, mechanical gauge would go out of spec. I'm going to go with eletrical boost gauge.
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