Check engine light
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Moyock, NC
Check engine light
Someone please help save me money!
Here is the problem, I have a 94 Honda Civic!!
Na really though my check engine lamp is on. i have used the paper clip method to find out that it is a code 6 which happens to be coolant temp sensor. I have replaced the ecu (phearable.net) and all 3 coolant system sensors and have yet to find the problem.
Along with the light on is the lack of power! after the car heats up (normal operating temp) it loses all of the little bit of power it has (sohc!)
Anyone out there with any ideas please let me know! Thanks
Here is the problem, I have a 94 Honda Civic!!
Na really though my check engine lamp is on. i have used the paper clip method to find out that it is a code 6 which happens to be coolant temp sensor. I have replaced the ecu (phearable.net) and all 3 coolant system sensors and have yet to find the problem.
Along with the light on is the lack of power! after the car heats up (normal operating temp) it loses all of the little bit of power it has (sohc!)
Anyone out there with any ideas please let me know! Thanks
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 824
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Re: Check engine light
Start with seeing if the sensor wiring is bad. You need a multimeter for this
With the temp sensor you can pull off the plug and check the power and ground side of the connector itself.
Turn your car on and let it warm up a little.
Set your meter on DC voltage. On the power side of the plug put the red/volt lead on the power wire and ground lead on a known good ground (battery is best). If you read voltage the power side is most likely good.
Set the meter to ohms. Put one lead on the other wire of the plug(ground) and the other lead to a known good ground to test for continuity. If you read around .001-.1 ohms then the ground side is good and the sensor is bad. If the meter show OFL or no resistance you have an open or high resistance on the ground side.
This is to check the cooling fan
Pull the relay. A good way to start is to make a jumper wire and plug it into pins to complete the circuit. When you pull the relay you can look at the top, there will be a diagram on top. Between 1 and 2 there will be a coil and 3 and 5 is the switch. Take off the top of the relay and it will show what goes were. Jump 3 to 5 and see if the fan turns on, if it does then everything is fine and you need a new relay. If not then test for power and ground on the circuit like the temp sensor.
See what you get and we can go from there.
With the temp sensor you can pull off the plug and check the power and ground side of the connector itself.
Turn your car on and let it warm up a little.
Set your meter on DC voltage. On the power side of the plug put the red/volt lead on the power wire and ground lead on a known good ground (battery is best). If you read voltage the power side is most likely good.
Set the meter to ohms. Put one lead on the other wire of the plug(ground) and the other lead to a known good ground to test for continuity. If you read around .001-.1 ohms then the ground side is good and the sensor is bad. If the meter show OFL or no resistance you have an open or high resistance on the ground side.
This is to check the cooling fan
Pull the relay. A good way to start is to make a jumper wire and plug it into pins to complete the circuit. When you pull the relay you can look at the top, there will be a diagram on top. Between 1 and 2 there will be a coil and 3 and 5 is the switch. Take off the top of the relay and it will show what goes were. Jump 3 to 5 and see if the fan turns on, if it does then everything is fine and you need a new relay. If not then test for power and ground on the circuit like the temp sensor.
See what you get and we can go from there.
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