4g63 motor question...
#11
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Re: 4g63 motor question...
Or you could properly tune the car. I guess the understanding of the importance of a proper running car is a lost art these days?
Just because it starts and runs without immediate catastrophic failure doesn't mean it is running correctly. The oil housing is also different, as is the ECU, and MAF. There also is no knock sensor. If you put all the turbo parts on the NT you'll need the turbo ECU and you'll need to add the extra wires to the harness for the turbo MAF and knock sensor, and you'll need to dial the timing way back to make up for the extra compression, and you'll also want to run 10w-40 or 20w-50 oil (I hope nobody is putting 10-30 in a 4g63.. might as well be running water..)
In the head the only difference is the cams. As far as the block, pistons are different, and oil squirters are absent in the NT block. The rest of the differences have already been covered I think.
Just because it starts and runs without immediate catastrophic failure doesn't mean it is running correctly. The oil housing is also different, as is the ECU, and MAF. There also is no knock sensor. If you put all the turbo parts on the NT you'll need the turbo ECU and you'll need to add the extra wires to the harness for the turbo MAF and knock sensor, and you'll need to dial the timing way back to make up for the extra compression, and you'll also want to run 10w-40 or 20w-50 oil (I hope nobody is putting 10-30 in a 4g63.. might as well be running water..)
In the head the only difference is the cams. As far as the block, pistons are different, and oil squirters are absent in the NT block. The rest of the differences have already been covered I think.
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Re: 4g63 motor question...
sry for jacking our thread but should i be running 20w-50 in my Na 463???
Or you could properly tune the car. I guess the understanding of the importance of a proper running car is a lost art these days?
Just because it starts and runs without immediate catastrophic failure doesn't mean it is running correctly. The oil housing is also different, as is the ECU, and MAF. There also is no knock sensor. If you put all the turbo parts on the NT you'll need the turbo ECU and you'll need to add the extra wires to the harness for the turbo MAF and knock sensor, and you'll need to dial the timing way back to make up for the extra compression, and you'll also want to run 10w-40 or 20w-50 oil (I hope nobody is putting 10-30 in a 4g63.. might as well be running water..)
In the head the only difference is the cams. As far as the block, pistons are different, and oil squirters are absent in the NT block. The rest of the differences have already been covered I think.
Just because it starts and runs without immediate catastrophic failure doesn't mean it is running correctly. The oil housing is also different, as is the ECU, and MAF. There also is no knock sensor. If you put all the turbo parts on the NT you'll need the turbo ECU and you'll need to add the extra wires to the harness for the turbo MAF and knock sensor, and you'll need to dial the timing way back to make up for the extra compression, and you'll also want to run 10w-40 or 20w-50 oil (I hope nobody is putting 10-30 in a 4g63.. might as well be running water..)
In the head the only difference is the cams. As far as the block, pistons are different, and oil squirters are absent in the NT block. The rest of the differences have already been covered I think.
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Re: 4g63 motor question...
Nah don't need to run that thick in a NA. If it's NA you can get away with 10w-40 or 10w-30. Just see what the motor seems to like. I've always found 10w-40 to be what works best in lower hp and NA 4G63s while 20w-50 works better for high hp, high rpm ones
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