Turbo Weather?
I boost higher and quicker when it is cold. I also spin a whole lot more. I was always told," On a cold day never just get in the car and drive with 'high boost', select low boost and see if your over boosting"
Cold air is goin to help the turbo and blower guys more because it sees more dense air BEFORE compression, and the compression will be easier on the turbo, ie, faster boost, more boost... and the outlet temps will be colder than normal so the intercooler doesnt have to work as hard, and your engine is seeing overheated crap air....
A n/a car sees air that is different just from the ambient temp change, while the turbo will see MORE temp loss after the compression since before was colder to begin with...
And if cold weather leans you out, Im sorry your a retard, tahts why they made this gadget called a afpr, but I forget what zilvia.net called them, I like fprr...
A n/a car sees air that is different just from the ambient temp change, while the turbo will see MORE temp loss after the compression since before was colder to begin with...
And if cold weather leans you out, Im sorry your a retard, tahts why they made this gadget called a afpr, but I forget what zilvia.net called them, I like fprr...
Originally posted by Ultraprince
I have a supercharger and the cold air makes me lean out more then usual, so I don't benifit from the cold weather where a na ca can. So he is right, and if u don't believe it then well u are an idiot.
I have a supercharger and the cold air makes me lean out more then usual, so I don't benifit from the cold weather where a na ca can. So he is right, and if u don't believe it then well u are an idiot.
Originally posted by projsr20det
What I was refering to, was that Vr4, was saying he did not have enough load to spool his turbos in gears 1 and 2.
Heres a chart I snagged.
Gear Ratio \RPM at Transmission Output Shaft
with Engine at 3,000 rpm
1st 2.315:1 \1,295
2nd 1.568:1\ 1,913
3rd 1.195:1\ 2,510
4th 1.000:1 \3,000
5th 0.915:1 \3,278
As you can see with the engine at 3k for the lower gears, due to the gear ratios, the engine is working harder (more load). When you are in the higher gears is when more of the engines power is being transfered straight to the wheels, hence when measuring on a dyno it s best to measure when close or near a 1:1 ratio to get a more accurate reading of true engine power.
I kind of get what you mean about distance traveled.., but the higher you go gear-wise, the less stress on your motor at a given rpm.
What I was refering to, was that Vr4, was saying he did not have enough load to spool his turbos in gears 1 and 2.
Heres a chart I snagged.
Gear Ratio \RPM at Transmission Output Shaft
with Engine at 3,000 rpm
1st 2.315:1 \1,295
2nd 1.568:1\ 1,913
3rd 1.195:1\ 2,510
4th 1.000:1 \3,000
5th 0.915:1 \3,278
As you can see with the engine at 3k for the lower gears, due to the gear ratios, the engine is working harder (more load). When you are in the higher gears is when more of the engines power is being transfered straight to the wheels, hence when measuring on a dyno it s best to measure when close or near a 1:1 ratio to get a more accurate reading of true engine power.
I kind of get what you mean about distance traveled.., but the higher you go gear-wise, the less stress on your motor at a given rpm.
ic what u were trying to say. at that specfic rpm...i can see how the load was greater. i was kinda speaking in terms of dynamics and the change of load throughout the whole gear. nevertheless..touche.
dont give me defenitions and formulas...
cold air is good for both forced induction and N/A
but its better for blowers and turbos than nitrous.. nitrous is cold anyway..
I see more boost in a cold day than what I usually see in a hot or a humid day..
as far as cold weather makes the car run lean at WOT thats right but here is where ur tuning takes place..
cold air is good for both forced induction and N/A
but its better for blowers and turbos than nitrous.. nitrous is cold anyway..
I see more boost in a cold day than what I usually see in a hot or a humid day..
as far as cold weather makes the car run lean at WOT thats right but here is where ur tuning takes place..
Originally posted by Josepi
Running without an EMS that can compensate for ambient temp changes must suck.
Running without an EMS that can compensate for ambient temp changes must suck.
Originally posted by BLue 01
as far as cold weather makes the car run lean at WOT thats right but here is where ur tuning takes place..
as far as cold weather makes the car run lean at WOT thats right but here is where ur tuning takes place..
not that i read through all the bullshit yall have been spouting..
but ill try to clear up my ramblings.
ambient air temp change is more noticeable in n/a cars because there is nothing interfering with the air before it gets into the engine... wit the exception of the air intake system, intake manifold and ports on the head. the only way a n/a motor can get air into the thing is the pressure being exerted from all around us. motors do not suck air in, they push air out and the atmosph. press. pushes air into the engine.
forced induction cars such as turbo and super charged cars tend to heat the air as it passed through all these compressors. so you dont see the drop of air temp as much by the time the air has gone through the turbo, the i/c piping and whatever else. obviously cooler air outside will bring make air to air intercoolers work more efficiently.
what i was trying to clarify is that changes in the barometer dont always coincide with the air temp. the higher the barometer {kpa} the higher atmospheric pressure is.. {obviously} .
moral of the story.. an n/a motor can make great power on a cool dense air day, and be completely shit when the air temp rises /density declines. however a turbo or otherwise force inducted engine will undoubtedless see flucuations in power, it will still make very close to the same power. esp turbo cars. if the air is less dense, the turbo will just work harder to catch up by not opening the waste gate until the pressure in the system is where it should be.
for all you hates/shit talkers.. go play with ur floppy cocks some more. you never seem to have anything constructive to say, but you try to talk down to anyone willing to throw there 2cents out.
see you at the track.
but ill try to clear up my ramblings.
ambient air temp change is more noticeable in n/a cars because there is nothing interfering with the air before it gets into the engine... wit the exception of the air intake system, intake manifold and ports on the head. the only way a n/a motor can get air into the thing is the pressure being exerted from all around us. motors do not suck air in, they push air out and the atmosph. press. pushes air into the engine.
forced induction cars such as turbo and super charged cars tend to heat the air as it passed through all these compressors. so you dont see the drop of air temp as much by the time the air has gone through the turbo, the i/c piping and whatever else. obviously cooler air outside will bring make air to air intercoolers work more efficiently.
what i was trying to clarify is that changes in the barometer dont always coincide with the air temp. the higher the barometer {kpa} the higher atmospheric pressure is.. {obviously} .
moral of the story.. an n/a motor can make great power on a cool dense air day, and be completely shit when the air temp rises /density declines. however a turbo or otherwise force inducted engine will undoubtedless see flucuations in power, it will still make very close to the same power. esp turbo cars. if the air is less dense, the turbo will just work harder to catch up by not opening the waste gate until the pressure in the system is where it should be.
for all you hates/shit talkers.. go play with ur floppy cocks some more. you never seem to have anything constructive to say, but you try to talk down to anyone willing to throw there 2cents out.
see you at the track.
Last edited by kawgomoo; Nov 17, 2003 at 05:04 PM.







