define "rebuild"....

a total rebuild would pretty much consist of seals, dust caps, bushings, and obviously fluid. There's no real reason to go replacing damper rods on your forks, they don't really wear. If you supply the parts, and catch me on a wednesday or sunday (my days off) I'll do it for $20 for the pair (off the bike), only cuz I know I can do them both in about a half hour (that's 1/4 my shop rate, lol). the dust seals aren't really a neccesity unless they're dry rotted. The fluid seals, and more-so the fluid itself and bushings, are what really make the difference on a set that's got it's share of miles on it. Dumping that crap water-like fluid for a heavier weight, quality fluid will make more difference than anything, considering how you ride.

If you wanted to do gold valves, it'd be the perfect time, but then again, that's more $$.

let me know, I'll take care of ya man.

 

what fluid would you recommend?

 

the 23rd eh?
can't wait

 

fwiw, i used PJ1 light to medium which iirc is a 15 or 20 wt fork oil when i changed and rebuilt my 2nd gen 500r forks. Been working pretty well for me, however I had resprung them with a .95 spring.

Definitely took the nose dive out of the front end when braking. Overall pretty happy with the results, though I still need to set the sag to fine tune it better I think.

 

Nice ride this morning.

 

yeah at minimum I was going to purchase the racetech springs for the front when I got this done. The real problem for me is just my motorcycle is the only way I get around.

 

CBR vs Coyote. Story is like year old, but still crazy.

 

I used sonic springs, i believe they were cheaper than the racetechs. are you going emulators too?

 

I would really like to get the emulators but I am also working on a budget that I need to maintain. The emulators are I think 150 from kneedraggers.com

 

yeah.. i have sonic springs and they were cheaper.. For an SV anyways.