What kind of kit? Wet or dry? Where is the nozzle placement? You need TR55 plugs. Start with a 50 shot first to see how the car reacts to the gas and give you a feel of what to expect. If this is the car in your sig, which has a manual transmission you need an RPM switch. I would still recommend it even with an auto, the 4L60E has a tendency under larger loads to hit the rev limiter between shifts. I would also tune 2 degrees of timing out. The best part I found that does all this without getting crazy is a “Timing Tuner” which allows you to set RPM limit and decrease timing in two degree increments only when the N20 system is activated, otherwise the car runs on the stock tune, no need for a tune if you go this route.

Do not follow the advice of placing 100 or 125 shot right away. Always start with a small shot and see how the car reacts.

Last that fuel pressure safety switch is probably useless, they are not calibrated to the fuel pressure of an LS1 fuel rail. By the time it senses a fuel pressure dip your #7 and #8 cylinder will have already detonated. Get a fuel pressure gauge mounted inside the car using an electrical feed.

 

Do a 7 stage a 35, 45, 55, 65, 75, 85, than 100 to get the feeling of a turbo spooling.

 

Thankya bake, +.

 

bottles are for babies..

whats the point? u have a LS1, that already has loads of tremendous potential..

plus ur car using dinitrogen monoxide is like dipping ur motor in acid.

 

WAT

 

plugs and tune, as someone else stated. Go crazy with it

 

either end urself or explain the awesome knowledge that your post entails.

 

what im trying to say is, LS1 motors are already a badass engine as they are. You add one one little mod and it creates massive HP. This guy on LS1-tech put in cams and springs and BAM! +71 RWHP, with STOCK exhaust.

With dinitrogen monoxide or nitrous oxide or nitrous (whatever u wanna call it) it is a very risky mod. One ignored error while setting it up can potenially melt your motor (small fuel pump w/ N2O = melted engine). Im not saying adding N2O is retarded, but if you are going to add N2O your eventually gonna have to add better internals (forged pistons, stronger connecting rods and bearings...). Soo why dont you just invest it into something worth while like those cams and springs for your LS1 ehh?

cams and springs guy:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...-mild-cam.html

 

You assume that other mods do not come with risk, like installing a cam and springs for example. In order for you to do this you must pull the balancer and front engine cover off, there is risk in that alone, many have broken balancer bolts off in the crank snout. The risk of introducing debris into the engine during the process or water intrusion exist. The camshaft itself if not checked may actually be longer duration or higher lift than what was ordered and well when Mr Valve meets Mr Piston it is not going to be pleasant. It happens quite often and further the additional RPM that can be achieved with a different camshaft and specifically the year of LS1 this person has can stretch rod bolts.

That is just some of the risks with that mod, but you also assume that N2O is dangerous or much more risky when in fact it is actually less risky when installed correctly with the right equipment in place. The stock fuel system is safe to a 150rwhp wet shot. The removal of 2 degrees of timing ensure a safe buffer along with the cooler spark plugs. The RPM switch prevents potential problem by cutting the system above specified point. The N2O is not constantly on and is only used when needed, so it is not stressing the motor like a cam and heads do constantly. It needs no other supporting mods to get the maximum gain.

I seriously doubt someone got 71 rwhp out of just a cam install on a completely stock LS1. Average gains are 25rwhp with near 40rwhp on the high side without headers and 10-15 additional with. You would need a set of heads and an aftermarket intake in place to achieve 70rwhp with just a camshaft.

edit: Your observation skills are lacking, I read your link. He installed LS6 heads and an LS6 style intake manifold, further Patrick G can spec a camshaft like no other, but take any dyno with a grain of salt. Further they used stock exhaust manifolds which is not the same as stock exhaust, this is a custom roadster they installed in which the stock manifolds are like shorty headers.

You assume the stock internals are not strong enough to handle the N2O, yet you believe they are strong enough to handle a camshaft install and further modifications without a need for additional strength. I doubt you know much about anything in an LS1 if you believe there is a difference. More people destroy motors with internal modifications than with N2O when the system is set up properly.

 

Ultimately, the car will be going LT's, 3.90 quaife, LS6 heads, LS6 intake, and a G5X3 cam with roller rockers. I think that should give me 400hp that will pull. After all that, I'll be doing some HPDE's