How I repaired my friend's "curb rash"
#14
Re: How I repaired my friend's "curb rash"
pretty sure it's either the cuts from the lathe you're looking at or where I stopped taking off paint, and it's making you think that...
Last edited by grkguy89; 01-31-2014 at 07:39 AM.
#16
Re: How I repaired my friend's "curb rash"
I have not expanded to a booth for painting wheels yet, so after repairing that rash, the wheel would need to be painted and cleared.
Hopefully it wont be too long before I begin refinishing wheels.
For now it's doing work like I've pictured, crack repair, straightening and truing wheels
As far as inquiries go, please PM me. This thread is not meant to be a service provided ad
Hopefully it wont be too long before I begin refinishing wheels.
For now it's doing work like I've pictured, crack repair, straightening and truing wheels
As far as inquiries go, please PM me. This thread is not meant to be a service provided ad
#17
Since there is a chunk missing from the bead lip, isn't that technically not repairable? I mean you hit a pot hole hard enough or something else, etc, it's just going break off again?
#18
Re: How I repaired my friend's "curb rash"
no, not necessarily.
tire was still holding pressure even with the broken lip (full 35psi)
it's just metal
when the wheel is welded properly it can, many times, be stronger than before in the area of repair
tire was still holding pressure even with the broken lip (full 35psi)
it's just metal
when the wheel is welded properly it can, many times, be stronger than before in the area of repair
#20
Re: How I repaired my friend's "curb rash"
If it's a cast wheel, the repair area may be stronger than the original wheel, depending on the alloy and if the weld can properly fuse with the cast alloy. If that doesn't happen, the repair section might break off at the weld or somewhere into the casting, especially if there is residual stress from the welding (which can be huge).