andy i checked a couple times to see if you were on aim but didnt see you.

 

damn i wish i would have been online then... thanks a lot for looking for me. i'd still like to talk to you whenever you have time, of course... i haven't completely resigned to the concept of needing a new ecu but i am growing very concerned.

 

i think i have a stock #62 ecu somewhere.

 

I'll bring my car up there this coming weekend dude, then we'll try your shit on my car and see if it works... once again, i really dont see the ECU being blown if the the motor cranks. If there is no fuse inside the Power FC and you've checked all other fuses, the last thing left to check would be the wiring harness for burnt grounds like we discussed. Or maybe when you replaced the battery harness, or even moved it, you might have a loose or bad connection.

 

here's an update- i found an ecu pinout on freshalloy.com. i'm getting power to some pins on the ecu, but NOT the main ecu power. also, touching the test light to some pins i hear relays clicking, and on one i hear the fuel pump- apparently this is not normal? i'll post more details (each pin i have power to and its respective function) tomorrow when i have more time.

i will be in touch if i'm going to need one.

note to self- PAY ATTENTION WHEN DOING ANYTHING WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM!!!11 this is such a pain in the ass...

 

Any nissan motor will crank with no ecu or ecu harness.

 

Theres still a fuse blown somewhere then. There should be a gray plug near the battery, thats your ECCS relay power. check for power on the blue/red, the red and the black/white.

you need a multimeter to properly test those clear top high amperage fuses.

 

i knew there was a more efficient way of testing them than just looking at them. i have a multimeter but it's been a long ass time since i used one... how do i test them?

i'll check the eccs relay tomorrow...

 

set the multimeter to the OHM setting which is the omega symbol. Then there should be a beeper button that when you touch the leads together you get a beep. This is also called a continuity test. You may have a specific continuity selllection on your tester.


but if you set it to ohms you'll have infinity with the leads apart and 0 when touching. So if you test a fuse, you should have in the range of 0-10ohms (it SHOULD be 0 but corrosion and salt may bring it higher)

you should see what i have to do to my 76 fiat's fuses to keep the car from acting wierd.


But if you just looked at them as a check, then your main alt fuse is blown, i think the 75 amp one. IF you cant find a replacement from another car, you can build your own outta 2 large female spades and 1" of wire. its temperary but itll get you going till you can steal one outta a junkyard car or go to nissan to buy replacements.. cuz no advance auto has those babies.



or you could come by my house and steal one off tims car

 

yeah the 75a alternator fuse was blown to shit, you could tell easily by looking at it. the other fuses all seem to be good, the most i got was 5 ohms out of the 25a engine control fuse, the rest were nearly 0.

i attempted to test for power at the eccs relay, got absolutely nothing. i assumed it was the right plug because it was basically the only one there and it had the blue/red, red, and black/white wires (8-pin). again, nothing on any pins, with a multimeter or test light. i also noticed while i was down there a blue relay with two plugs, i know it may not have anything to do with what the car is doing, but what is that for? please tell me there is an easy relay i can swap out and the car will be running again... i don't care how retarded i look or how stupid i feel as long as this bitch works.