crankshaft position sensor wont set a code most of the time. worth checking out.

 

thats the ignition control module.


did they run a KOEO, KOER, and memory codes? all three? i have found that a majority of "scan tool owners" havent a fucking clue on how to operate their equipment.

if the problem is duplicatable, which it sounds like it is, it is rather simple to hook up even a DVOM and see which signal is dropping out, whether it be a CKP (PIP on a ford), CMP (unlikely, cause the CMP is used mainly for injector firing, if it goes out the engine will run batch fire instead of sequential), or if the coil driver output to the coil is failing.

a scope is faster, and can monitor all of them at once, but good luck finding someone that owns one capable of auto work, let alone know how to use one.

 

I never said replace the part, I just said what autozone has them for.

Just because you feel it necessary to put up an ASS avatar up doesn't mean you're the only one who knows what you are talking about. He's just trying to get the thing working to sell it.

 

yep. and if you had any form of auto knowledge, you will realize that their electrical components are absolute and complete shit in a box.

cam sensor wont cause a failure to fire on this particular year of engine, it is there to synchronize the injector firing. also, the sensors rarely fail, it is usually the synchronizer bearing goes out causing the window to wobble and break the sensor off. a crank sensor is more likely, however, simple tests will prove it out. and by simple tests, i dont mean taking an ohmmeter to the sensor and seeing what the internal resistance is. that is almost a pointless test, unless the sensor is completely open. which then, of course, it will not start due to not being able to create an AC pattern.

as for the price of the sensor, if AZ has it for 30 bucks, and it is by chance the correct one, they are under a quarter of the cost of that sensor from any of my suppliers (i did a quick check with Motorcraft, and then with Echlin line from NAPA) ever heard of the phrase you get what you pay for?


if he is just trying to get the piece of shit running so it can be sold, then dont waste time throwing parts at the goddamn thing. take it to someone that knows what the fuck they are doing, and i can GUARANTEE you that any competent tech with a scope can tell what is wrong with that Yamaha bastard child in less than an hour.

or do everyone a favor and blow that shitcan up, because if there is one car that is an immortal pain in the ass to keep running and have decent parts availability, is a first gen SHO. 2 years ago the ignition modules were on national backorder, no one on dealerlink had any of them. i had one sitting here for 4 months before we finally found one that would work, and it was a motorcraft.

i have an ASS avatar for a reason. i'm an arrogant pompous prick, but when you know what you are doing you can do that. no one knows everything about cars, and never will. if they say they do or act like it, then they dont need to be in the business. however....when someone has had firsthand experience with a line and knows their ins and outs, its generally a good idea to take their advice as a good solid hint.



if you want to learn or share information, ask or help with it. thats the one way that people learn about shit. unless they are complete and utter fucking tards.

 

lol, checking the internal of the resistance of the sensor while heating it up is the trick. you can check with Ford and find a spec for the test.

the CPS resistance specs on mercedes is in the 600 ohms to 1200ohm range. 9 times out of ten when you heat a bad crankshaft sensor up it will climb up to around 1300 ohms then give you an OFL reading.

ideally, an oscilloscope would be the way to go. quick and concrete test results with those, but i highly doubt you have one or the knowledge to use it.

good luck with it regardless

 

damnit....i knew there was a reason that im an asshole!

 

most of the time, it will work. but from real world testing, it will not always come up and prove out in an ohm test. key example is going to be on a 4.0 jeep engine, their crank sensors are notorious for intermittent failures, and damn near impossible to prove out with an ohmmeter. granted, they are not a 2 wire AC signal generator, but a 3 wire hall effect style. a WSS on a ford is another that comes to mind, intermittent failure on them that doesnt matter if its hot or cold.

how was UTI?

 

it was good, lots of book knowledge to be had. i learned more at the dealership in the first 2 months than i had the whole time at school though. nothing beats experience as im sure you know.


hows your business coming along?

 

bring your tools, i will put you up in my basement if you want a job



more work to get done that the two of us can do, looking at property to build our new facility in the next few years.

 

I didn't read this thread but mine did the exact same thing.

Try the DIS module on the side of the intake first - it takes 5 minutes to "install" (you need a 5.5mm socket.) If that doesn't work return it and get yourself a crank sensor. It's not too bad of a job to do if you've got some experience and confidence.

edit: Like fc said, the generic DISs are pretty crappy and you will likely have to special order a good one (no returns.) Try to find someone who will let you swap one or pray one hits a junkyard.

Where do I sign up? I'm sick of getting dicked by my dealership. Got 9 Toyota certs and 2 ASEs but need more hands on experience.