we all have different views and im not saying your wrong,but in the last 7 years dealing with turbo hondas ive never had a single problem with the rods, nor have the many other people ive installed turbo kits on, or people i knew running stock motors. Of course they have thrown rods out the block from over revving from a mishift and such but nothing to do with boost related rod problems, problem was always with stock pistons or sleeves even on cars with full tunes and good engine management staying under stock rev limit, stock rods can handle alot of crankcase and revolving pressures and being hes looking into the 230-250 range, i think the rods would be fine if his motor was built tightly and tuned well.

but id like to hear what your experience with failing rods have been since i have only experienced people having rod problems when over revving or losing oil pressure from bad maintenance issues.

although i do agree if its in your budget, get the rods. one thing you should remember though for your street car. your putting forged race parts in it, there not really engineered to last for hundreds of thousands of miles or be driven at a cold start in and around town every single day,the motor will last you a long time but its not going to last you like a stock motor as far as mileage is concerned.and forged aftermarket parts have alot more expansion and contraction characteristics than the stockers so youll want to let the car warm up first before you start driving it.

 

I like the previous post. You mention a clutch, which is a fairly needed item, when you're chaning the torque by a large amount. There aren't many special parts needed for the HP range he's looking. Low Compression pistons, and a very reliable tuning setup are beneficial. He can then run more boost, and be in the efficiency range of the turbo better, while not increasing the horsepower dramatically.

The ability to supply and manage fuel properly is the key to making any motor live. for 230 hp, about 550cc's is fine. As you approach 260-270 hp, it may be deemed quite benificial to run 620 cc injectors. They'll run closer to the fuel pressure and duty cycle you want, for that power level.

Another good observation.

I'd recommend investing in a return line setup, to better control the fuel, then fine tune with your engine management.

And, with the knowledge this gentleman possesses, I'd say he's probably correct about the rods. I don't have personal experience with that, as I consider it worthwhile to spend a little extra for the insurance, but....That's my opinion.

Other observations I will add: Spend the extra money for a good intercooler. Although it's not really important for a Turbo that is not stressed, it will help maintain better Intake Air Temps, and reduce the chance of causing knock if something does go wrong because of that.
It will also make it easier to dial and maintain a boost level, without overshooting it on a spike, or having the WGA blowing off excessively.

 

what would you recommend as for the return line? my intercooler is a decent sized johnny race car intercooler. as for injectors I have been told that dsm 550s will work fine so i have a friend whos gonna give me his. Also im not really looking to go past stock redline. like I said im just a spirited driver. not looking to race. Also I do have a remote starter to warm it up before i drive.

One other thing that I am missing is intercooler piping. any direct fit suggestions? I hear that thermal is the best there is and prolly cheapest way to go but i dont know if ill ever have time to get down that way.

 

550cc's/620cc's???? wow your going to drown that motor. stock greddy kit 10lbs. stock internals+310cc injectors=230-240whp all day. ls's are the strongest of all b series motors. trust me. do you own research,and then call jg engine dynamics,when your ready to be schooled on motors. ls's are all ready 9:2:1 compression(perfect) and they will go 13lbs(.57 trim t3/t4 hybrid,not the cheap ebay shit either) before the headbolts stretch enough to blow a head gasket/head. i know at least 100 people who would agree to this point completely, mainly old customers. call around and get more opinions before you decide,but you def went with the right motor for boost applications

 

DSM 550's should be enough. But they will be stressed to provide fuel for 260 hp correctly. So the Fuel Return will be more critical.

Most fuel return systems are basically identical. I'd recommend one that uses an Aeromotive Boost Reference Regulator, and purchase it from a reputable company who will stand behind the rest of the kit. The boost reference allows you to run a lower pressure at Idle by an amount equal to the boost level (Say you're boosting 10 lbs, you can run 10 lbs less fuel pressure.) That can seriously help idle quality, and daily driveability, as the fuel maps will have to be altered less to ensure there is enough fuel on the top end. Make sure to have a Walbro 255 HP in the tank to feed it, and adjust the pressure as high as 70 psi if needed to provide the fuel you want up top.

www.rceng.com

They have some good formula's for figuring out how much difference there will be with pressure increases, etc.

i.e.: At 70 psi, DSM 550's should be around 700cc/min. So, plenty enough fuel, but need to run additional pressure.

 

Check the RC Engineering site.

@ 260 hp, a Turbo 4 cylinder needs 515 cc/min injectors.
535 @ 270 hp.

And those are basically minimum recommended at base fuel pressure. Base fuel on a Honda is 40 psi, slightly less than the stated 43.5 psi industry standard test pressures, so those #'s need to be higher to compensate for that.

Further, you're better off running the thing rich at high RPM's under a load with a turbocharger. Factory setups recently from Mazda are running near 9:1 AFR by redline. There's a reason for that. It won't necessarily show optimum horsepower, but it's very safe. And this gentleman wants to do "spirited" driving.

Further, it's better to use a larger injector than a FMU which boosts pressure. i.e., a typical 12:1 FMU you find a lot of guys using, at 12 lbs, is 144 psi of fuel pressure. As a basic rule, you should NEVER go over 100 psi of fuel pressure. It's just not safe! I don't care how long so and so has been running one that way, the lines, fittings, and other components are not rated for use with that kind of pressure, and there's a reason for that.

So, a 1:1 rising rate regulator, with the ability to give pressure as needed, up to 70 psi, and properly sized injectors are going to be the best way to go.

 

That's debateable. Very debateable. Who determines "perfect" compression? Perfect compression might be said to be 8.0:1, given that you could then run the same motor at 18 lbs of boost (assuming you don't surge to death on such a small motor) and make about 50-70 more horespower with ease, despite the loss in compression......

Granted, you may not choose that turbo for that option, but there's a damned good reason just about every piston manufacturer in the world makes 8:1 (or very close to that) pistons for "turbo applications"

 

no he will not drown the motor, that greddy kit may come with 310 injectors, but if i remember right it also comes with an fmu and an inline fuel pump. Of course you dont need huge injectors if your fmu is raising fuel pressure to 120 PSI !!!!under 12 lbs of boost, not to mention maxing that injector out probably at 100% duty cycle which is RETARDED. Thats the way turbo kits were installed 8 years ago, not the way it should be done today especially when you can get a basically free engine management system. 550's are the proper injector to make that amount of power, they wont be stressed out, hell 620's are looking better now that i think about it. My turbo gsr on 550's was running at 78% duty cycle making 225whp on a mustang dyno(roughly 260 on a dyno jet) under boost,and i still got 380 miles to the tank. Tell me how thats drowning the motor ? If you have a good tuner who will take the time to tune your car at low throttle for around town driving than 550's even 620's are perfect for that power goal while still getting good pg. I do however agree with you that you can boost an ls no problem stock up to 12psi or so, i ran 12 lbs for a few years without any problems. And hes building the motor, doesnt matter if he had a type r motor, hes tearing it down and building it so an ls motor isnt THE RIGHT motor to boost, thats a 10 year old saying people thought was correct. Any motor can be boosted to make great power in stock form, as long as you have the right parts and the right tune. id much rather boost a gsr motor over an ls cause ill make just as much power, if not more on less boost having less cylinder pressure putting less stress on the motor and having a way nicer top end pull. Ive been through many setups and the last setup i had was by far the best and most reliable while still getting nearly stock gas mileage, its all about the tune and the setup.

Hondarules- you know whats up. good info....turbodreamz,listen to the two of us,ive been around for quite sometime, hondarules sounds like he has too.

 

If all you want is 240hp.. buy a decent turbo kit, 550cc injectors, headstuds and invest in a good tune. There is no reason to overbuild the motor if your not going to take advantage of the upgraded parts.

 

yep yep.