I had a bouncing idle, after working the air bubbles out of the coolant lines, this fixed my problem.

Also if you have a vac leak you will have this problem also.

 

+1

Most of the problems I've seen with bouncing idles were due to swaps and needing to bleed the air out of the cooling system. Bleeding the the system several times normally solves the problem.
On tougher bouncing idles where the system has been bled to hell and back...I've encountered the famed "FITV" or Fast Idle Thermo Valve more times than not. Most of the time a simple removing the three bolts that securing it to the TB will give you better access to the rear plate. Removing the plate, then removing and cleaning the valve is usually all that is needed to be done. Just make sure that you snug the valve tight when reinstalling it into the FITV housing.

...and yes, a vacuum leak will cause the same bouncing idle.

 

EXACTLY, it's air bubbles in the coolant line...

AS FOR REMOVING THE SAFC.... NO!!!!

you've talked to my buddy who built the car, you've talked to the man who owned the car, now listen to the guy that turned you on to both... the iac has been checked, put 3 different ones on, it's not that....

the motor only has a lil over 2k miles on it, honestly i don't expect it's full potential and rings to seat and everything to FULLY break in til 3k, being in the car since built and seeing the vast improvement on a day to day basis

as for the SAFC, if you remove it you will be among the wide variety of idiots that dwell among VADriven... 2 have already expressed my point .... YOU WILL MAKE YOUR CAR RUN LIKE AN ABSOLUTE TURD!! You're car will run WAAAAAAY too lean and you will fuck it up, plain and simple

truthfully, and i mean no disrespect, but i don't know why my buddy traded you his car anyway, the car is immaculate except for a broken vent on passenger side and needs paint, the motor has 2k miles on it, and i'm willing to put $5000 cash money in hand to say that 19 outta 20 of each of the people that view and/or read this thread don't have a car that can touch it...

MY SUGGESTION TO YOU... deal with the idle problem until you take the car to whichever dyno you may so choose... then have them tell you yeah, air bubbles in lines... then have them "re-tune" your car and PLEASE DO POST the dyno sheets, before and after of course like you told my buddy you would.... i don't see you pulling any more then 3-9 hp with setup you're on now, and maybe 220-230whp after you add the type-r cams...



PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO NOT LISTEN ABOUT THE SAFC, IF YOU WANT TO TUNE YOUR CAR ANY BETTER THEN IT IS NOW, GO HONDATA


anyway, enjoy your beautiful, fast, TUNED, new car

 

.

 

I'm confused, I thought the ECU has already been tuned using Crome?

There is absolutely no reason to even have an SAFC if the ECU is chipped and ready to be tuned. Everything that can be tuned with the SAFC can be tuned in any software such as Crome or Hondata, and with much greater control and resolution than the SAFC. Piggybacks like SAFCs are really only used if there isn't any easy way to tune the ECU or there aren't any reasonable aftermarket replacements.

There is no reason that I can possibly think of to have a piggyback and a tunable ECU, it just isn't necessary and introduces too many variables into the tuning process.
If the car has been tuned on a SAFC, and you remove it without tuning the ECU, then it might run like crap, yes. We're all going on what the OP said and assuming it was tuned using Crome.

By the way, I hope I'm not one of the idiots you're referring to. That would be a wrong assumption on your part.

 

LOL

I guess the saying "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink" bit is true.

I still stand behind my +1

 

..."idiots"... wow!

Then explain what advantages does a Hondata tuning has over CROME? Dont get me wrong, all I have ever used before my AEM EMS was Hondata. But I have seen both programs..... God bless the people who made CROME and Uberdata.

... maybe there is something else here that is not being told. I have seen a few EF/CRX (pre-OBD to OBD1 conversion) set-ups where installers have used the AFC to manipulate other sensors such as O2 sensor or MAP sensor on a desperate attempt to fool the ECU. This is only because of the capability in which devices like AFC can alter voltage input/output to and/or from a sensor. But even if this was the case, CROME can easily compensate for any of these signals.....

So, like Yell88CRXsi, I still think that the AFC should be discarded..... who the hell still uses AFC on Hondas anyway?

Dont do it man...... hahaha...

 

.

 

Or, he could have a bad MAP sensor, as a good friend of mine with a TypeR did the other day! His was doing exactly as described!
However - I doubt that's the problem in this case. Just giving you shit man, cause you're cool!

 

[QUOTE=thermal;3707455..... who the hell still uses AFC on Hondas anyway?[/QUOTE]

The uneducated?