1993 Accord Help
If you replace the v/c gasket and the tube seals and see that the plugs and wires are still getting oil on them, you are going to have to replace another set of seals. They are located on the underside of the rocker arm assy. They are known to get brittle over time because like any other rubber material over time this will happen. If you are not willing to attack this task on your own, shoot me a PM I'd be more than happy to work something out with you, if you are in the southside or close by.
+1.
1993 still came with R-12. Now, it MAY have been retrofitted if it's had any A/C work done through the previous years. However, if it has been retrofitted to r-134a, the technician was supposed to place a label under the hood to inform further technicians that the car has already been retrofitted.
For the OP, in case you might not know. Retrofitting is the process of converting your A/C from R-12 refrigerant to run on R-134a refrigerant because R-12 is environment unfriendly. It's standard procedure. All the recharge kits sold to the public are for R-134a, as you need to be ESCO certified to purchase R-12 (I believe)
1993 still came with R-12. Now, it MAY have been retrofitted if it's had any A/C work done through the previous years. However, if it has been retrofitted to r-134a, the technician was supposed to place a label under the hood to inform further technicians that the car has already been retrofitted.
For the OP, in case you might not know. Retrofitting is the process of converting your A/C from R-12 refrigerant to run on R-134a refrigerant because R-12 is environment unfriendly. It's standard procedure. All the recharge kits sold to the public are for R-134a, as you need to be ESCO certified to purchase R-12 (I believe)
god forbid anyone buys R-12 that crap is stupid expensive!! It will seriously cost a hella lot less to convert it over and fill it with R134a than it would to even FILL the R-12 to right pressure!!
i fixed the compressor so my AC blows icy chill now
i wanna describe the tranny problem a little more tho before i commit to any repairs
-in park and neutral it idles at about 1500 RPM (only 1000 RPM when in gear)
-once in drive the tranny shifts fairly smoothly but worsens as it warms up
-after the tranny warms up a bit (after about 5 minutes) the shift from 2nd to 3rd has sometimes spends an extra 2 seconds in neutral (slips slightly)
-the car is suppose to shift between 2400 and 2550 RPM but after the car has been running for about 12-16 minutes the car will not shift from 2nd to third until a minimum of 3100 RPM and then from 3rd to 4th until a minimum of 2900 RPM
-when i changed the spark plugs/wires it took 30 minutes for the high shifting to start, but after that single time it returned to the 12-16 minute period
-the check engine light is on
anyone know why these may be happening?
i wanna describe the tranny problem a little more tho before i commit to any repairs
-in park and neutral it idles at about 1500 RPM (only 1000 RPM when in gear)
-once in drive the tranny shifts fairly smoothly but worsens as it warms up
-after the tranny warms up a bit (after about 5 minutes) the shift from 2nd to 3rd has sometimes spends an extra 2 seconds in neutral (slips slightly)
-the car is suppose to shift between 2400 and 2550 RPM but after the car has been running for about 12-16 minutes the car will not shift from 2nd to third until a minimum of 3100 RPM and then from 3rd to 4th until a minimum of 2900 RPM
-when i changed the spark plugs/wires it took 30 minutes for the high shifting to start, but after that single time it returned to the 12-16 minute period
-the check engine light is on
anyone know why these may be happening?
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