jebsurf dont post on my threads anymore...you know everything...your a great mechanic...haha

 

Don't post on your threads? LOL dont be pissed at me because you are a fucking idiot and I made you look like a clown on your own thread. I also never said I know everything.But I do know you do not know what fuck you are talking about.
I guess these guys V dont know what they are talking about also

 

made me look like an idiot? dude i have more automotive knowledge then you . seems like you cant keep a job since you said you worked at a few ford dealerships...whats did you fuck so much shit up you had to bounce from place to the other? its all good man i wont reply to any of your posts on here or on this thread. making people aware and jack asses like you talk about shit like you know everything. later bro

 

Structure.


































This thread has none.

 

+1. That is what I am trying to explain to this guy and he is just not getting it.
As for you saying "i have more knowledge automotive then you" yea sure I can tell LOL .First off lest start off by answering your question (B20dateg) why I worked at more than one dealer and what did I screw up? Nothing. The manager that I worked for left and went to another dealership so I left with him. Also did I ever say that I was a mechanic? Let me answer that for you NO but I do know how they get paid. But I think the question of the day is in your profile you said that you are a so called "mechanic" (which I find hard to believe) then why cant you even change your own clutch https://www.vadriven.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225310(and I would actually believe about what you said about the ground being cold if it was not for this other simple shit you could not figure out) or figure out why your own tranny will not even go into gear https://www.vadriven.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226289 Here let me help you with your own words O what is this??????????? Another problem for a real "mechanic" https://www.vadriven.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220198 Another thing that I do not understand is you have been on here since Jan 11th of this year and you have had 4 problems big enough on where you cant figure them out and had to ask for help.Sounds like to me that you where the one installing the brakes. I personally think you will be better off finding a new job because you don't even know how mechanics get paid and you cant even figure out your own car much less diagnose other peoples problems with there cars.As for haha What do you think I am singling you out? NO I just call bullshit when I see it and this thread was full of it and I called it.And if you make another dumb ass thread I will be the first one to call you out on it! As a matter of fact I am going to poll to make this tread of the year.

 

Standard procedure -
Shop will have 1-3 ASE Certified Techs. Usually, only one will be an ASE Master Tech, if any are. Shop will have a transmission specialist (Probably certified), a driveability/diagnostics guy (The MasterTech probably), and a lot of general service techs. (If it's a big shop.) If they have a reasonable tire business, they may also have a drivetrain/driveline specialist, who likely doesn't have an ASE cert, but knows suspension well enough to adjust the car to what the machine tells him to...

Now, ideally, the general service techs will work under the supervision (at least to some extent) of the ASE certified guys. Most of the work will be checked to ensure it appears to be satisfactory. However, not everything is checked. If the shop can't hire semi-competent general service techs, the shop has issues. Paying the techs only $10/hr is a good indication. Brakes, general parts changes, etc., falls under B-tech work. And a C-tech (oil change specialist) making $10/hr shouldn't be touching a brake job. Further, the shop shouldn't be using cheap ass brake parts..... ($45 for brake pads???? You've got to be kidding. Even with the shop discount, from a cheap ass auto parts store, the brakes on my car were $85 for the front pads only! Why the hell would a shop use the cheapest pad they can buy when the customer is paying for it?)

As for the time, most brake jobs list in a reasonable book for 1.5 - 2 hrs of labor, for R&R (Do the job right, and you'll find out that that's not far off. Yes, I can beat that time, fairly well, and do it right. But you sir, probably don't have a torque wrench, and wouldn't know how to properly use it if you did!) That doesn't include resurfacing of the rotors, but instead, replacement. Given the shop labor rate is likely $80-85/hr or so, add in a charge for resurfacing the rotors, and the retail price for the $45 brake pad, and I could easily see $300....

I come from a small town, have done my time in an independent small shop. We've charged $250-300 for R&R of pads and rotors. Of that, approx $190 retail for the pads and rotors was the parts cost. (Obviously, our cost is significantly less, but that's part of the sales structure on services provided by a shop.) Gives you a better idea of the difference in labor rate

 

Lake Ridge Auto damaged my discontinued SSR Integrals when I brought them in for a tire change. It was a bad experience overall; I brought the wheels in off the car, brought the new tires, had an appointment and still ended up waiting several hours for them to put them on. They had what had to be the most junior guy trying to do my tires; he ended up having to have other guys come over to show him how to get the tires off. I found one guy sitting on my wheels watching with his work boots propped up on the center of the wheel.

When they finally finished, each wheel had several indentations on the inside from them mounting it to something, the weights were barely staying on because they didn't bother removing the paper backing material from the old weights; just stuck the new ones on over it, and one wheel had a pretty bad chip in the edge from where the asshole had tried to pry the tires off. Since they're discontinued wheels, it's not like I can just go get them replaced. They will never get my business or anyone I know's business again.

 

Lake Ridge Auto Care does suck! Please dont take your car there. This place is a rip off! I took my vehicle there on Sunday March 9. They had my vehicle all day, and charged me $420.00. I went and picked my vehicle up, went to work the next day (Monday) and on my way home from work my vehicle started acting up again and my service engine light came back on! I was pissed. I took it back to them the next morning, they once again had my vehicle all day, they called me at noon to tell me that they where sorry for not picking up on the problem when they had the car on Sunday and that they would charge me for the part and not the labor. I said ok and asked how much I was bieng charged? He told me $175 for a fuel injector! So I said ok I am on my way. On my way there I called the Ford Dealership and asked the parts Dept how much this part was and they told me $125 bucks. I was really heated now. I walked in to Lake Ridge Auto and told them that I was not paying $175 for a part that costs $125 at the dealership! So he brought the price down to $115. I paid and left.

This story really does get better!

I leave Lake Ridge Auto at 6:30 in the evening and while I am on my way to Alexandria my car over heats starts shaking again and my check engine light comes back on! By this time I was really pissed, the shop closes at 7pm and it was 7:05 so I proceed to call and no answer, I ended up calling 6 times before someone answered, I litterally chewed the guy a new asshole! He gave me the number to the Tow Truck company and told me to have them tow it down to the shop. I call the tow truck company and they tell me that they wont have a flat bed truck available for the next 4 days! By this time I was IRRATE!!!! Lucky for Lake Ridge Auto that they didnt answer when I tried to call them back. I had to find a ride from Alexandria to Woodbridge and leave my SUV on the side of the road! The next morning I was at there shop at 7:30 and the manager was already waiting for me. The manager asks for the adrs where my truck is so that he can send a tow truck to pick it up and I said you must be out of your fucking mind if you think you are touching my vehicle again! You have had 2 shots at it already what makes your think the third is gonna be any better? And I want my fucken money back. He hesitated for a minute and he said OK! So then he tells me that corporate would send me the money back in 5 days! I said not to worry I will just put a stop payment on the checks that I had written and his eyes got real big and said no trust me you will get your money that will just incure fees on your end as well as ours. So I said ok, and went right to the bank when we left and put a stop payment on both checks! Motherfuckers... These people cant figure out how to work on cars.... Drivers beware!

 

I agree. i took my corrado to a vw specialist here in virginia beach to get an idea of what was going on with my car. The guy didn't do much of anything and charged me 150 bucks.never ever took my car to a shop again!!!

 

so what did they charge you $420 for? what was the problem with the car? what did the service writer tell you when they called you with an estimate? no offense, this story sounds like bullshit.

as for the OP, sounds like a pretty standard shop to me, as far as charges and labor goes. mark up on parts can be anywhere from 30-200% depending of different variables of the part. 300 or so doesn't sound too far out of the ball park for a brake job consisting of pads and rotors. and not every service tech at a shop is going to be ASE certified, nor is it stated anywhere that a ASE certified tech is guaranteed to do the work.

and another person complaining about how a customer is being charged 2 hr. labor for a job that took a tech 30 minutes? does anyone on this forum know how repair facilities work?