What Fuel management system to use ???
I would get a Hondata unless you can afford and know how to tune with the Greddy E-manage. Everybody seems to like that one.
As mentioned earlier, I would use a wideband O2 sensor, especially since you would only need to buy one for your car.
As mentioned earlier, I would use a wideband O2 sensor, especially since you would only need to buy one for your car.
Originally posted by gen4H22A
... i am not expecting to run more than 5 psi until i do head work....please help...
... i am not expecting to run more than 5 psi until i do head work....please help...
id advise lower end work as well...
otherwise, bye bye pistons and rings...
nah, the piston rings can actually hold up to 8psi....i do know about my internals for my lude, im just new to this stuff...you can run as much as 5 psi on a good fuel system, and after head work u can run 7-8
and hondata is still pretty pricey considering what I still have ahead of me i nthis kit...i would raher save the 200 and get the rest of the fuel components i need... hondata with boost option doesnt come with a boost controller does it?
The AFC "hack" does advance the timing. I read a post by a person who had his car dyno tuned running 10 psi on the AFC "hack". It advanced the timing close to 8 degrees on a VA whether.
Side Note:
Think about the price. The VAFC is about $330. You can get a Hondata for another $100 or so and have a more reliable program than the "hack". I'm not saying that the "hack" sux. I have my "hack" running since January without any problems. If you have an OBD2 set-up, you may trip a Code 13 CEL/MIL (barometric pressure). It does not affect the performance tho. It's your choice man. I had the VAFC before this "hack" started. If I could do it again, I would've taken the route to a Hondata or an actual stand alone. Max boost on a hack that I've seen so far is 11 psi.... Goodluck man.
Side Note:
Think about the price. The VAFC is about $330. You can get a Hondata for another $100 or so and have a more reliable program than the "hack". I'm not saying that the "hack" sux. I have my "hack" running since January without any problems. If you have an OBD2 set-up, you may trip a Code 13 CEL/MIL (barometric pressure). It does not affect the performance tho. It's your choice man. I had the VAFC before this "hack" started. If I could do it again, I would've taken the route to a Hondata or an actual stand alone. Max boost on a hack that I've seen so far is 11 psi.... Goodluck man.
Thanks for all the info guys, I will probably go with the hack at first, just to get everything going, and afterward i can upgrade to hondata.... I just wanna get boost asap....so yall know, but thank you
wouldnt the SMC work too? you can get them shits offline for like 110.00
http://userwww.sfsu.edu/~ecg/products.htm
http://userwww.sfsu.edu/~ecg/products.htm
The SMC will also work . The way the "Hack" works is that is uses the stock MAP to read boost, inconjunction with the larger injectors. No check valves and missing links or FMU's. It does this by lowering the MAP voltage. Since the stock map is still being used,on a MAP table ,Honda ECU's timing are advanced at higher rpm's. But,all that extra fuel keeps it rich and kinda safe. Best solution is a Standalone or Hondata.
Originally posted by gen4H22A
nah, the piston rings can actually hold up to 8psi....i do know about my internals for my lude, im just new to this stuff...you can run as much as 5 psi on a good fuel system, and after head work u can run 7-8
nah, the piston rings can actually hold up to 8psi....i do know about my internals for my lude, im just new to this stuff...you can run as much as 5 psi on a good fuel system, and after head work u can run 7-8
someone posted a list of the h22's that were boosted around here and what levels of boost they were running, supercharged or turbocharged, and what parts of their engines they blew. most were ringlands at around 6-8 psi. even spraying h22's were having trouble. most of those were open decked h22's though. closed decks should be better off....






