well, i dont care how long you've been riding. you WILL fail, and feel stupid cause you were told t wasnt gonna work.. Like you said, you've never done anything with the forks.... So, pretty much you have no clue what you're doing...

 

it IS possible to internally lower an inverted cartridge fork, BUT, I DO NOT reccomend it. ( I rarely ever NOT recomend something, lol, have you ever seen my bike? it's a deathtrap, and I ride around in dickies, doc's, a t-shirt, and a non-dot helmet, "gear nazi's" be damned!)

What are you trying to accomplish that can't be done by sliding the forks thru the trees? Just trying to get an idea of what you'd trying to do.

another side note, if you lower the forks internally, , say you lower them 2"... well, you lose 2" of fork travel. The LAST thing you want is to be riding a 1000cc sportbike with severly limited front suspension travel, unless it's a straight up dragbike.

When I lowered my girl's bike, I ONLY did a little internally b/c I physically COULDN'T push the forks thru the trees more than an inch, since the bars go right across the tops of the forks (tube bars, like a dirtbike)



you know, the do make straps specifically for lowering the front ends of sportbikes. they bolt onto the brake caliper mounts and the strap goes across the frame, between the stem and the front of the gas tank. Dunno how that would work since the cbr1000rr has that funky damper right there, and no way in hell would I want a strap to interfere with that and bind up the steering.

They're made for streetbikes that see occasional dragstrip time as a quick way to hold the front end down, but I have seen people run them on the street. Again though, you lose suspension travel, and like I said before, your forks have a progressive rate, meaning the farther in the travel they go, the stiffer they get, so it's gonna ride like ass.

 

if you're gonna cut the springs...don't reuse the stock springs. buy springs where the tension is the same throughout the spring and cut those.

if you cut the stock springs, depending on where you cut them, you will suffer a lot of front bottoming out when u brake......or worse...going over the handlebars when u do an emergency brake because your suspension can't handle it.

 

'tis true, and a good point, you can buy straight rate springs. Still not the bestest, but better.

I'd put heavier fluid in the forks while you're at it, if you go that route, to stiffen up the damping rates and lessen the tendency to bottom out.

 

this bike is going to be a strip bike. i am turboing it and keeping the swingarm under a rediculous stretch so i want the bike to be as slammed as possible to keep the front end tamed a little better. i want to get rid of some highth from inside the forks that way i dont have to push them up through the clamps that much. i have used the drag straps before and i didnt like it at all. they just didnt make the bike feel smooth at all.

 

gotcha.

well, to be honest, chopping the springs is going to quite a bit less smooth than even strapping the front.

but, again, it's your bike, so you're free to do what you want with it. If you go with the internal lowering route, just make sure you have someone do it that knows the in-and-outs of it. It's not as simple as just chopping springs.

 

alright, thanks for the help. its sounding like it is not worth the trouble so back to the drawing board.

 

why don't u use pvc spacers inside the forks to limit the travel of the suspension...the height of the front end won't change though

 

i am looking to change the height

 

wow.... im glad they talked you out of that one. lol