ASR 24mm rear sway bar, TEIN SS's. What for the front now??? Sway bar QUESTION
No.... Custom suspension is not required. Hondas front suspension is so good (88-01) that the only thing you need to do is not lower the car too much. And if you did want to reduce the bump steer (the biggest problem with a Honda) you can get a kit which consists of a new lower ball joint. And that will run you about $175 or you can flip the tie rod ends to the underside of the knuckle. I would not worry about any of this stuff for street driving. But bushings are key. And poly bushings are CRAP.... Replace the stock ones with either a kit from HardRace, Mugen or OEM. The HardRace kit can be picked up for like $200-$300 and that's the whole car. Do not use Energy Suspension bushings because Hondas suspension arms move on more than one axis. And poly only work on one axis with minimal load. Add a twist to it and it will bind like crazy.
I see a lot wrong with ES bushings. I'll find the thread on H-T where the guys who race hondas discuss how their suspension bushing do move on multiple axis. Also I have first hand experience as the car I track and will be racing next year with NASA Honda Challenge H2 has ES bushings in it and the car sucks under braking. This is because the bushings are binding. That's why the car will have full sphericals in it after Xmas.
I see a lot wrong with ES bushings. I'll find the thread on H-T where the guys who race hondas discuss how their suspension bushing do move on multiple axis. Also I have first hand experience as the car I track and will be racing next year with NASA Honda Challenge H2 has ES bushings in it and the car sucks under braking. This is because the bushings are binding. That's why the car will have full sphericals in it after Xmas.
Last edited by Fabrik8; Oct 26, 2009 at 03:53 PM.
I would assume a lot of your problem is because of the suspension and mounting points deforming. Poly bushings just make the problem show itself. I think you're blaming the bushings for exposing a problem somewhere else. It is a good idea to change to sphericals for a track car, but I think you're giving poly bushings a bad rap for the wrong reasons. I can't imagine a car with stock bushings performing better under braking than poly bushings that are slightly binding because of suspension compliance under load. Basically, would you rather have stock bushings with lots of compliance in all directions, or urethane bushings with a small amount of friction from binding but much less compliance in all directions?
Special Projects Motorsports has the full set of OEM style hard rubber bushings including the trailing arm (26 pieces) for $289.00. Or they can be found on ebay for $200-$250.
So the HardRace bushings are somewhere between the stiffness of the OEM bushings and the Energy Suspension bushings? If they were as stiff as the Energy bushings, they'd have the same binding problems.
All the bushings besides the RTA are rotational, if that makes sense. No lateral or twisting movements anywhere but the rear trailing arm.
To reply to yours and Kris's questions. You have to understand that there is some additional twist to the suspension bushings on a Honda. Let's look at the lower control arm of a DC. The inner bolt and rear compliance bushing are not on the same plane. The compliance bushing is set a slight bit inward as compared to the inner bushing of the LCA. Also the compliance bushing is not bolted into the car straight either. So we have 2 mounting points on 2 slightly different planes and angles we will have some twist. Not a lot but some, thus making the bushings mulit axis. Now why do stock type bushings not bind like ES? Well an OEM style bushing has the rubber mounted inside the inner and outer race of the bushing. This means that any additional flex can occur without the bushing contacting the mounting tabs. The ES bushings make contact with the suspension component it is holding and the mounting point which is holding it. When the "twist" happens not only dose the center of the poly have to deform but the outer as well. This is where the problem is. This unneeded loading of the suspension movement is akin to a non linier increase in spring weight. And on track or even autox this is bad. Also over time due to this deforming the bushings will wear. Look up on H-T for a thread started by a guy who screen name is DavidR (I'll double check that I'm on my phone and I can't seem to figure out how to link to the thread). Anyway what he posted years ago and we found similar issues starting on my dads CRX, is that the center of the bushing will simply wear away. Now the CRX and DA front suspension dose not twist as much as the EG and DC but we do check it quite often and its not to bad but we will most likely change them by next summer if he starts bringing it to the track with us. So for someone like the OP to drop the coin on an ASPEC chassis brace and 24mm rear bar it would not make scence to buy an ES master kit for $175 and a set of Mugen trailing arm bushing $100 and still have issues that you won't have with the set of hard bubber OEM style sold by HardRace or Mugen if you really want to be a baller.
Last edited by vbspec; Oct 26, 2009 at 05:54 PM. Reason: spelling :D




