starter problems on del sol, help me outtt!!!
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Re: starter problems on del sol, help me outtt!!!
#12
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Re: starter problems on del sol, help me outtt!!!
You need to isolate the problem to spark or fuel (assuming its not compression or air related). Next time it will not start-give it a puff of starting fluid in the intake or right in the air cleaner box. If its starts for a few seconds-its fuel related, and its likely related to your ignition switch, relay or wiring feeding your fuel pump. It is most likely NOT fuel related if I had to guess. So if it does NOT start with either...I am leaning towards ignition (no spark) because the #1 no start problem is isolated to teh distributor and coil:
1. Go to fuse #15 and make sure all connections are perfectly clean and fuse seat well, and check and clean all visible grounds (I don't have a chart handy)
2. Test the Yellow wire at the igniter. It should have battery voltage with the Key On, Engine Off and the coil negative wire should have battery voltage.
3. Test the Yellow/Green wire on the igniter. It should have 9 to 12 volts produced by the igniter. If the Yellow/Green wire has the correct voltage, the Engine Control Module (ECM) should pulse the voltage to ground to create spark.
4. To test the signal, back probe the YEL/GRN wire using a lab scope or a dwell meter. Look for a square wave signal to ground or a dwell reading of 10 to 14 degrees of dwell. If the signal is good, then check for a trigger signal on coil negative. If the trigger signal is present, replace the ignition coil.
If you do not have the correct tools to test the coil, and have the cash-its a good time to just do some preventative maintenance and do a preventative maintenance, ignition, coil, ignitor, ignition module, cap replacement, plugs and wires. When the coil goes, it often takes out the ignition module. I am totally against throwing parts at a car without knowing the exact problem...but if I had to get anything after checking the fuse and grounds-I would grab a new coil and see what happens.
NOTE: The coil usually goes gradually-meaning-do not just look for spark-you may see a very weak spark-but that does not mean you are getting a full clean spark strength.
1. Go to fuse #15 and make sure all connections are perfectly clean and fuse seat well, and check and clean all visible grounds (I don't have a chart handy)
2. Test the Yellow wire at the igniter. It should have battery voltage with the Key On, Engine Off and the coil negative wire should have battery voltage.
3. Test the Yellow/Green wire on the igniter. It should have 9 to 12 volts produced by the igniter. If the Yellow/Green wire has the correct voltage, the Engine Control Module (ECM) should pulse the voltage to ground to create spark.
4. To test the signal, back probe the YEL/GRN wire using a lab scope or a dwell meter. Look for a square wave signal to ground or a dwell reading of 10 to 14 degrees of dwell. If the signal is good, then check for a trigger signal on coil negative. If the trigger signal is present, replace the ignition coil.
If you do not have the correct tools to test the coil, and have the cash-its a good time to just do some preventative maintenance and do a preventative maintenance, ignition, coil, ignitor, ignition module, cap replacement, plugs and wires. When the coil goes, it often takes out the ignition module. I am totally against throwing parts at a car without knowing the exact problem...but if I had to get anything after checking the fuse and grounds-I would grab a new coil and see what happens.
NOTE: The coil usually goes gradually-meaning-do not just look for spark-you may see a very weak spark-but that does not mean you are getting a full clean spark strength.
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