boredom

sounds like timing is off a couple teeth

SlammedScort

Then it would run like shit constantly.

Cyanide Jello

Canooter valve is stuck closed

ShawnD

Well I haven't really gotten on it because if something is wrong, I don't want to end the cars life. I will go interstate driving today and see how it accelerates at speed though. But ya once its warmed up it seems fine.

ShawnD

Still accelerates from 30-70 fine, idk what the fuck is wrong. And it is burning oil according to my nose.

White Devil

I just did a water pump replacement in a friends Cressida (7M-GE). He had all new belts, A/C pulley, timing belt w/ pulley, water pump, and a high-temp therm. Only took two days by his mucking around and not being on time with shit, but we did the timing belt too because the pump spewed coolant all over the front of the engine. The only thing that retards RPMs in that whole setup is the timing belt, and thats if it isnt top center once everything is together.

The crankshaft pulley (bottom front pulley, on most cars) should have a mark on it that indicates whether the cam is at top dead center in the galley, which should be visible by removing the oil cap and the No. 1 spark plug (on most cars). Using a dip stick or other CLEAN non-metallic object, slide said object in the oil hole and rotate the pulley until the stick is at its highest point (gently pulling up while rotating the pulley is recommended so that nothing gets snapped off in the motor). Then check the mark on the pulley. If the mark is off, there's your problem. if you are to the left of the mark, its retarded, if you are to the right, its advanced. (I BELIEVE...)

Another thing that can cause limp mode to crop up in Hondas/Acuras is sensors by the motor which can go bad or have damaged wires that will cause the computer to throw itself into said limp mode. Lots of times this doesnt happen unless someone starts yanking wiring around or tugs on a hose and gets caught on a plug that has a sensor, such as a crank or rod knock sensor, to be pulled/damaged. Splicing into computer wiring for mods can also cause this to happen.

EDIt: another thing. Some motor mounts sit right near where the pulleys are, this is true with the Acuras anyway. If the tire gorilla had to drop out the motor mount to get to the engine and fucked up the mount, THAT'S why it needed replacing. Just an FYI.

White Devil

A correction to my earlier post: Taking the spark plug wire off of valve #1 and feeding a screwdriver covered in cloth or a plastic or wooden rod into the hole will tell you when piston #1 is at its highest in the cylinder. Removing the oil cap atop the valve cover should allow you to see the cams as they rise and fall with each turn of the pulley. The cam has to be visible in the valve cover AND the cylinder has to be at the top when the crankshaft pulley is properly marked to bo Top Dead Center. Since its highly unlikely the mechanic messed with your valves and cams, the only way the crankshaft wouldnt be TDC is if the timing belt wasnt properly put on and the cam gears are off.

SCREECHO

I just use my dipstick as a guide for tdc.

boredom

wrong, helped a friend re-do a timing belt on a civic, and it had the exact same issues. the owner would have to floor it to get moving and then after it hit about 2500 rpms, it would take off like a bat out of hell. turned out, the timing belt was off by 4 teeth, luckily the owner had driven all of 40-50 miles before calling and reporting the problem.

phyber

just drive it like a bat out of hell on the interstate.

after the wreck, claim the gas pedal stuck.

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