lowridinda

ther is allso tourqe steer wich is hard to correct.... it will cause the wheel to be pulled to one side or the other under hard aceleration... if you look at the specs you gave the right rear the toe is + .40 and the left rear is -.01 these should both be at .08... the front toe is .00 on one side and .06 on the other ne thing more than .05 diffrence from the correct specs will cause issues...my advice is to put your front camber kits in then go to a shop and have them set the rear toe the front toe and the front caster...as the alignment of a car is based of the rear to avoid dog tracking.

.Sarge.

If you're trying to make an argument of having a fair amount of knowledge, proper grammar usage would be advantageous.

And yes, all sections of a vehicles suspension geomtry are going to affect how straight it drives and if it is pulled off center of the road. Caster on EG and EK chassies civics are not adjustible. Neither is camber unless you install aftermarket equipment. Toe is the only thing that can be changed. And given that the allignment shop didnt seem to do anything with the right rear toe (shown at .4*) thats going to be a good place to start and have your toe 0* all around. Once that is fixed drive it and leave the car out of gear while its rolling so your drive train resistance doesnt pull your car one way or another.

Doesnt really matter what shop you go to either becuse 90% of the time they are all laser/computer racks. Finding a good mechanic that knows what he's doing is obviously more important.

BAD4DR

Thank you!

BAD4DR

I won't even bother to correct the horrid grammatical problems there.

Caster is the "lean" of the front tire. It's angle, parallel to the line of travel, with the ground, or more specifically, with a line perpendicular to the ground, through the center of the front axle.

In real terms, it's how far forward or back the front suspension is leaned through the centerpoint of the front axle/spindle/wheel.

What does it do? Well, more positive caster generates slower steering response, more stability, and makes it harder to turn the wheel. Less positive (or negative) caster, generates faster steering response, less stability (particularly at higher speeds) and makes it easier to turn the wheel. It's common for an autocross racer to adjust in a lot of negative caster when possible, to make it easier to turn the car.

That holds fine and true, when you're adjusting both equally. Anyone with knowledge building an oval car, will set a lot of positive caster in the RF, and a lot of negative caster in the LF, as it will basically cause the car to drive itself in the corners. It will also mean you will see the driver steering right pretty hard going down the straights. But hey, I'm just a lowly ASE Certified nobody who's trying to help the guy. Yes, that's in Steering/Suspension.

As for camber causing it to turn hard - not at .3 degrees of cross camber. Not even at 1 degree of cross camber. It takes a pretty significant difference in camber on most vehicles for it to generate a steering action (>1.5). It's rare to see more than a degree of Cross Camber, unless it's an oval race car, or is badly damaged. Most specifications allow for around a half a degree. That's usually also the specification range for each side. (Example, Camber should be between 0.0 and -0.5, cross camber 0.5.)

Caster on the other hand, will call for half the specification range for either side, as a general rule on most vehicles. For instances, the specification may be +3 to +5, and the cross caster specification will be 1 degree.

That's a pretty good example of how much more caster affects straight line performance than, i.e., camber. Of note, many vehicles have a seperate left and right caster specification due to weight location on the vehicle, or chassis design causing a pull one way, and they use this setting to correct for that.

Incidentally, Caster is the ONLY adjustment that doesn't affect tire wear....

But you already knew all of that....

civichm

I also have a strut on that right rear side that when It was on my other car, were it bolts up to the lower control arm that bolt was stripped in there with a impact or something ( not from me, from previous person) So we had to put alot of heat on it to get it out. Now I hear a knocking back there with it on the car now. I thought It was the exhaust But I have new exhaust an thats bolted up pretty solid. I had back of car jacked up other day on right rear and I took that side with wheel in arm an pulled up an pushed down significantly and Did not feel or hear anything. It was actually really stiff an felt good. So im just not sure. The negative camber up front is at -2.3* but thats on both sides. Its not more positive on either side. And the cross camber is at 0.0. The caster is at 0.06* on the driver side an 0.00* on the right were the problem is. I also dont feel anything lose up front. I drove the car just a bit ago an when Im driving it likes to pull harder to right when I hit the gas. I will pull just letting off steering wheel but It pulls harder if I accelerate while doing it. Its not a hard pull though on a flat surface unless I get up to speed. It is hard to tell on everyday driving though as all the roads are crowned.

Maybe if that strut is blown in the back would that cause the problem -
The camber is Left Rear: Before -2.4*|After -2.5* Right Rear: Before -2.2*|After -2.2*
Toe: Left Rear: Before -0.01*|After -0.01* Right Rear: Before 0.39*|After 0.40*

Rear Cross Camber: Before -0.2*|After -0.3*
Total Toe: Before 0.37*|After 0.39*
Thrust Angle: Before -0.20*|After -0.20*

DirtyEF

Whenever i do alignments the only thing i have ever had cause a pull was toe, but i work at a hyundai dealership and they dont have front camber and caster adjustments so its just set the toe and let it go. I have seen newer guys do alignments without locking the steering wheel center and causes a major pull afterwards.


as far as getting an alignment check for free i dont know of any shop that actually goes through all the trouble to check the alignment and not charge labor. Where i work its 69.95 once the car gets on the rack whether you need an alignment or not.

civichm

Ya actually thats what I thought. Shit if i could find a place that would put it on there that wont like a friend or something and not charge me that be whats up