Checking the O2 sensor involves warming up the car like reuter said then putting the ECU into Diagnostic Test Mode II which varies from ECU to ECU. Probably invovles turning a screw on the ECU for the S13 motors (I don't know on S13 ECUs how to switch modes). Then just counting the blinks.

Check the wiring first though. No sense in doing all that if the wiring is bad.

 

i have the blacktop ECU, does that matter how i check for codes. I tried checking for codes before but my engine light does not come on .I have had the car running like 30min and no luck I followed the FSM way hold at 2k rev up to 3k , let it idle bla bla bla

 

Yes it does, like I said different ECUs have different ways of switching between the diagnostic modes.

Does your ECU have a screw that is adjustable from the outside?

 

yes it does. I also found a 1/4in. dent in the middle of my fuel rail. i guess i should replace that huh

 

u think it would be the cause? hey call 1800 sr20det

or its 1888sr20det

ask them theyve helped me in the past

 

I worked on my sr today after having an all essay exam at VCU ahhhhh. i noticed air coming out of my greddy type-s BOV at idle. The bov makes (fluttering) noises when i rev it. i tried turning it on the soft side and when i revved the motor it idles around 2k and i feel air coming out of the BOV for like 30 sec. then i tired turning it towards the hard side, and i revd the motor and bov sounded choppy. could this be my problem that i never noticed a bad BOV???

 

bump

 

a leaky BOV will defn. cause your problems...ie. not idling.

also, the SR o2 sensor does basically nothing. you can run the car w/o the sensor and get no codes and nothing will change pertaining to the running condition of the car. eventually you will get a code....maybe. but the car willl still run fine.

swap the BOV for a new one or someone elses that works.

 

Yeah, the leaking BOV is most likely the culprit. You're losing metered air before it gets to the engine, but the MAF already told your computer how much air is supposed to be there and how much fuel to mix with it. So you're basically running too rich at idle (misfiring) and the computer is trying to compensate for it (but can't) and it dies.

Sounds like the valve might be stuck on the BOV. Take it off and see if you can move it with your hand. One of my friends (dkeeper240 on here) has a type-s for sale if yours turns out to be messed up.

 

Leaky BOV = intake leak that you said you didn't have

How much PSI are you running? Unless you're running over stock I'd just leave the BOV disconnected. It causes more problems than it fixes.

Plus your car will sound like a goose with no BOV