rear lca question
#23
fabricating is fun
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Re: rear lca question
have no clue what you are talking about. but if you torque down the rear bolts and leave them with out any lube. they will break again. that is why i use anti seize on everything. i dont have to worry about breaking shit. even if you are going to leave the stuff that you put on, on. then later on when you sell the car and someone else wants to change that part they can and not worring about breaking bolts. use anti seize. it saves knuckles
#24
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Re: rear lca question
You're not getting my point. Head bolts aren't the only bolts in a car that should be properly torqued.
Anti-seize changes the torque because it is a thread lubricant, so your actual torque will be off. That doesn't really mean anything if you're just randomly tightening the crap out of stuff. I'm thinking that if you actually use the torque spec, you won't have as many problems with bolts seizing and breaking either. Anti-seize is making it worse probably, because you can tighten and stretch/fatigue bolts a lot easier if they're lubed. So they may come out easier, but you're not doing the bolts any favors either.
I've never really had a problem with suspension bolts breaking, but I use a torque wrench.
Anti-seize changes the torque because it is a thread lubricant, so your actual torque will be off. That doesn't really mean anything if you're just randomly tightening the crap out of stuff. I'm thinking that if you actually use the torque spec, you won't have as many problems with bolts seizing and breaking either. Anti-seize is making it worse probably, because you can tighten and stretch/fatigue bolts a lot easier if they're lubed. So they may come out easier, but you're not doing the bolts any favors either.
I've never really had a problem with suspension bolts breaking, but I use a torque wrench.
#25
TurboPipingSystems
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Re: rear lca question
No need to lube the threads.... just lube the stem section, which is the section that actually makes contact with the bushing.... I do the same thing on ball joints.... lube the contact section.
Chris, you have been lucky. Almost every Honda that I've done suspension for... even the stock ones (untouched), especially 92-95 civics and earlier 3rd gen tegs, gave me a hard time with those rear LCA bolts during removal. What I found somewhat effective was spray those bolts with penetrating oil a few days prior to tampering with it... especially after an attempt in which it didnt budge... Even my own teg gave me that problem while replacing my struts...
Chris, you have been lucky. Almost every Honda that I've done suspension for... even the stock ones (untouched), especially 92-95 civics and earlier 3rd gen tegs, gave me a hard time with those rear LCA bolts during removal. What I found somewhat effective was spray those bolts with penetrating oil a few days prior to tampering with it... especially after an attempt in which it didnt budge... Even my own teg gave me that problem while replacing my struts...
#26
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Re: rear lca question
Well sure, that's what I mean. I haven't had to use any out of the ordinary methods to make them acceptable to work on, like using anti-seize for later. That doesn't mean I haven't had to soak anything with penetrant.. I haven't had anything break yet though.
Lubing the shank of the bolt won't affect the torque like lubing the threads will, so thats a good solution too.
Lubing the shank of the bolt won't affect the torque like lubing the threads will, so thats a good solution too.
#28
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Re: rear lca question
well i still use anit seize on everything. i know im not going to put anit sieze on the head bolts but you know where im going with it. im pretty sure but in the manuals say that you want to coat the thread when installing. im not 100% positive but think i read that somewhere. the control arms are torqued down at like 22 ft lbs. so putting a little of anti sieze isnt going to hurt if you tighten it down with a 3/8" ratchet.
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