Will tune for food
if anyone needs a stock ecu evo tune..let me know. I've been honing in my skills and have a few cars that you can check out for verification
I can tune other things as well if you need it, I've tuned tons of honda's, and they are all still running perfectly strong with 0 problems.
I can tune other things as well if you need it, I've tuned tons of honda's, and they are all still running perfectly strong with 0 problems.
My WRX has been giving me some problems lately.
The ECU crapped out on me a few weeks ago - so thats been replaced - now it idles and runs fine - without running rich as hell like it did before the computer was replaced.
However, the damn thing just wont hold boost. We've checked all the vaccume lines/hoses, IC piping, diverter valve, etc. My mechanic is beginning to think theres an issue with my 20PSI map (18g turbo). When we go to boost the thing just falls on its face. It'll only hold about 1-2psi, turbo is fine and it definately spools, we took it out and inspected it, but the system just wont hold boost. When driving around, out of boost, the car runs fine.
This morning we're going to revert back to the stock mode to see if it'll run any better or hold boost...Because when we put the new ECU in, we immediately reflashed it to my tuned map. I have a conservative tune (16-18psi) and an aggressive tune (20-22psi). I have always run the 20psi map because thats the only map loaded onto the AccessPORT. On a CD though I have the other 16psi map. However, I dont have the USB cable to load up the cd in order to stick that program on my AccessPORT.
Would any of you tuners be up for helping us figure out what the hell is going on?
It may be that we need to just make a whole new program and start over cause this aggressive tune map may have a glitch in it - causing the computer to go to crap and not boost correctly.
Any help would be great!
BTW, I have the car at a small import shop on Brambleton Ave.
PM me if you can help.
Micah
The ECU crapped out on me a few weeks ago - so thats been replaced - now it idles and runs fine - without running rich as hell like it did before the computer was replaced.
However, the damn thing just wont hold boost. We've checked all the vaccume lines/hoses, IC piping, diverter valve, etc. My mechanic is beginning to think theres an issue with my 20PSI map (18g turbo). When we go to boost the thing just falls on its face. It'll only hold about 1-2psi, turbo is fine and it definately spools, we took it out and inspected it, but the system just wont hold boost. When driving around, out of boost, the car runs fine.
This morning we're going to revert back to the stock mode to see if it'll run any better or hold boost...Because when we put the new ECU in, we immediately reflashed it to my tuned map. I have a conservative tune (16-18psi) and an aggressive tune (20-22psi). I have always run the 20psi map because thats the only map loaded onto the AccessPORT. On a CD though I have the other 16psi map. However, I dont have the USB cable to load up the cd in order to stick that program on my AccessPORT.
Would any of you tuners be up for helping us figure out what the hell is going on?
It may be that we need to just make a whole new program and start over cause this aggressive tune map may have a glitch in it - causing the computer to go to crap and not boost correctly.
Any help would be great!
BTW, I have the car at a small import shop on Brambleton Ave.
PM me if you can help.
Micah
My WRX has been giving me some problems lately.
The ECU crapped out on me a few weeks ago - so thats been replaced - now it idles and runs fine - without running rich as hell like it did before the computer was replaced.
However, the damn thing just wont hold boost. We've checked all the vaccume lines/hoses, IC piping, diverter valve, etc. My mechanic is beginning to think theres an issue with my 20PSI map (18g turbo). When we go to boost the thing just falls on its face. It'll only hold about 1-2psi, turbo is fine and it definately spools, we took it out and inspected it, but the system just wont hold boost. When driving around, out of boost, the car runs fine.
This morning we're going to revert back to the stock mode to see if it'll run any better or hold boost...Because when we put the new ECU in, we immediately reflashed it to my tuned map. I have a conservative tune (16-18psi) and an aggressive tune (20-22psi). I have always run the 20psi map because thats the only map loaded onto the AccessPORT. On a CD though I have the other 16psi map. However, I dont have the USB cable to load up the cd in order to stick that program on my AccessPORT.
Would any of you tuners be up for helping us figure out what the hell is going on?
It may be that we need to just make a whole new program and start over cause this aggressive tune map may have a glitch in it - causing the computer to go to crap and not boost correctly.
Any help would be great!
BTW, I have the car at a small import shop on Brambleton Ave.
PM me if you can help.
Micah
The ECU crapped out on me a few weeks ago - so thats been replaced - now it idles and runs fine - without running rich as hell like it did before the computer was replaced.
However, the damn thing just wont hold boost. We've checked all the vaccume lines/hoses, IC piping, diverter valve, etc. My mechanic is beginning to think theres an issue with my 20PSI map (18g turbo). When we go to boost the thing just falls on its face. It'll only hold about 1-2psi, turbo is fine and it definately spools, we took it out and inspected it, but the system just wont hold boost. When driving around, out of boost, the car runs fine.
This morning we're going to revert back to the stock mode to see if it'll run any better or hold boost...Because when we put the new ECU in, we immediately reflashed it to my tuned map. I have a conservative tune (16-18psi) and an aggressive tune (20-22psi). I have always run the 20psi map because thats the only map loaded onto the AccessPORT. On a CD though I have the other 16psi map. However, I dont have the USB cable to load up the cd in order to stick that program on my AccessPORT.
Would any of you tuners be up for helping us figure out what the hell is going on?
It may be that we need to just make a whole new program and start over cause this aggressive tune map may have a glitch in it - causing the computer to go to crap and not boost correctly.
Any help would be great!
BTW, I have the car at a small import shop on Brambleton Ave.
PM me if you can help.
Micah
Which solenoid are you using? In my experience I prefer to use an mbc or ebc instead of the factory solenoid and ecu...however I notice the suby guys usually just use a better solenoid and retain the stock ecu boost control.
This is where I would start.
btw, what shop on brambleton?
still running the internal gate on that 20g? stock solenoid? does it still have the restrictor in the T? the way the factory boost setup is on them, its a real pain to keep solid hard boost consistently with the T'd bleedoff valve. the intake piping to the turbo can also affect the boost control, cause thats where the bleed off pressure is dumped.
FMIC, TMIC? how you rollin it? definately do a leak check, but i'll bet its the solenoid not being controlled right.
personally, most ways of tuning a car are not the best for reliable streetabilty, and a "road tune" is asking for trouble most of the time. yes, it can be done (there is a nice road near home depot in cburg that was used to set a few of my old maps back in the wagon, but i smoked the brakes trying to stop it in time) nothing beats tuning on a LOADABLE dyno. this shit of strapping it to the rollers and acting like you are doing some actual tuning is recockulous. you MAY get it into about 3-4 more load cells, but most of the time you will still have some form of driveability issue.
to do a full tune and have it beautiful under all conditions takes a long time, and one hell of a tuning person. usually with more than a laptop, some freeware ROM emulator software, and a DIY wideband. you can use a Five gas on a dyno much easier and have it done right, but most people dont even know how to use a five gas to tell what is going on, let alone tune with one.
FMIC, TMIC? how you rollin it? definately do a leak check, but i'll bet its the solenoid not being controlled right.
personally, most ways of tuning a car are not the best for reliable streetabilty, and a "road tune" is asking for trouble most of the time. yes, it can be done (there is a nice road near home depot in cburg that was used to set a few of my old maps back in the wagon, but i smoked the brakes trying to stop it in time) nothing beats tuning on a LOADABLE dyno. this shit of strapping it to the rollers and acting like you are doing some actual tuning is recockulous. you MAY get it into about 3-4 more load cells, but most of the time you will still have some form of driveability issue.
to do a full tune and have it beautiful under all conditions takes a long time, and one hell of a tuning person. usually with more than a laptop, some freeware ROM emulator software, and a DIY wideband. you can use a Five gas on a dyno much easier and have it done right, but most people dont even know how to use a five gas to tell what is going on, let alone tune with one.




