yes i reset my valves. yes it worked after the cams installed but b4 i changed my cams my intake cam locked on me and it chewed up my b16 cam so i am thinking that there might be some metal in my screen i never thought about that until u mentioned it so thanks.
Secondly, it looks at oil pressure. If the oil pressure is not high enough, it will not engage. (Now, many Honda motors are older, never re-built, and converted to LS/VTEC for instance. Or, swapped into a non-VTEC car. No history on the motor is given, and the motor can have an excess of wear. This requires a new oil pump, or slightly thicker viscosity oil to get it to kick in because of the pressure. Or, possibly, the oil pressure sending unit has failed, but that should cut the light on.)

my motor is just rebuilt with not even 500 miles on it and my oil pressure sending unit has never been hooked up is that a requirement for vtec to work? i do have an manual oil pressure gague so i can see my oil pressure and when im driving it is around 65 to 70 psi is that enough?

 

It sounds like your oil pressure is fine, but if your VTEC pressure switch isn't hooked up (or bypassed) the ECU won't engage the VTEC solenoid.

 

that is hooked up i though u guyz meant the oil pressure sensor on the back of the motor

 

I would check your screen, see if that is your problem. If everything else checks out, thats where i'd go. I would also source another one you know works and swap it out. (Vtec solenoid) I have had the one on the block come unhooked and it never had an ill effect.

Sounds like you have plenty of oil pressure through the motor.

Curious, did you get your head machined after the cam problem..if not it will probably occur again.

 

Your avatar is funny but otherwise your a useless disease infested fuck-stick.

 

Now you tell us it locked a cam? My bet is on the fact the cam journals are damaged, the head is puking oil pressure past the damaged journal, coupled with the fact the screen has metal. Shit I'd say take it to someone who can diagnose this, but also you say the engine was rebuilt 500 miles ago! Could be issues with rebuild, what about the engine builder? Can he help you? Man so many questions now.... Most likely if it did lock the cam, fixing that head will be more expensive than replacing it with another.

 

there are two temperature switches and one temperature sending unit. did you check the right one. after reaching operating temperature you can use a multimeter for continuity in the sending unit to make sure it is working.

 

yes i got my head machined and checked out the journals are messed up once it shut off i didnt try to start it so nothing was messed up with my journals. but thanks im gonna go with the screen and my vtec plate.

 

Let me know what you find.

 

check screen no metal in in but when i put power to my solionid i dont hear any clicking at all. so from what im guessing i need a solinoid let me know who has one in nova area please