Who is pro at valve tap causes?
turn the motor over by hand several times by hand to prime the oil pump and then start the car, see if the noise is no longer present.
if not, that link u sent about the accumulator sounds accurate but the noise doesnt sound like it would be related...i dunno
i am not sure what type of lifters this has but i would compress m113 ones by hand (it was tough)...the ones that were defective normally would click when compressed (like i could feel it if i took the lifter and put it in between my two fingers).....crank sensors go bad on benz all the time i highly doubt this model has a crank sensor tho....that will cause delayed start, hard start, etc...or fuel filter being clogged...i duno man its hard to say hope these ideas help
what is ur exact model i could ask a few people if u want
if not, that link u sent about the accumulator sounds accurate but the noise doesnt sound like it would be related...i dunno
i am not sure what type of lifters this has but i would compress m113 ones by hand (it was tough)...the ones that were defective normally would click when compressed (like i could feel it if i took the lifter and put it in between my two fingers).....crank sensors go bad on benz all the time i highly doubt this model has a crank sensor tho....that will cause delayed start, hard start, etc...or fuel filter being clogged...i duno man its hard to say hope these ideas help
what is ur exact model i could ask a few people if u want
The engine is based on a 1986-1991 560SEL engine, but it's 10:1 pistons, lumpy cams, the 1981-1985 CIS style injection and ignition, some other stuff going on. (car started life as a 1985 380SE)
According to my service manual if you can push the lifter down by hand that means you have to replace it.
I do think the 560s had a crank sensor, but mine doesn't.
According to my service manual if you can push the lifter down by hand that means you have to replace it.
I do think the 560s had a crank sensor, but mine doesn't.
So, Abacus had the car for some other work and looked at this while they were at it. They said it's definitely a lifter not pressurizing as quickly as it should and they blame it on my low idle when cold. That answer doesn't really satisfy me because it does it longer the colder it is out, and it's only one valve (I have it narrowed down to one of the two valves for cylinder 7).
How bad is it to leave it like this? The lifter is only $50, but the tools I need to change it (MB proprietary valve spring compressor and go-no-go gauge) are $260. Will waiting until mid-January when I have the money hurt anything?
How bad is it to leave it like this? The lifter is only $50, but the tools I need to change it (MB proprietary valve spring compressor and go-no-go gauge) are $260. Will waiting until mid-January when I have the money hurt anything?
Last edited by marlinspike; Dec 19, 2009 at 11:59 AM.
It shouldn't mess up the tune at all, unless the valves are so far out of adjustment that they aren't operating properly. You'd know it if that was the case. I wouldn't worry too much about the one valve, I don't think an engine with that low mileage is in any danger and I think it's probably just alittle noise that can be fixed at your leisure. Ask the guys at Abacus when you go to get tuned, and if they think it's OK to put on a dyno, it's probably fine.
Oh, yeah, I should explain. It's not a consistent tapping (I guess the engine just didn't like the 5w-40 I had in it, makes sense since it calls 15w-50 an "all-season oil" good down to +5F, and that's referring to non-synthetic oil), but a loud sound at start up. I.e. this isn't a shim issue, but a no pressure in the lifter issue.
In warm weather it's only a second or two, but now that it's cold it seems to last a while (maybe 10 seconds or so).
In warm weather it's only a second or two, but now that it's cold it seems to last a while (maybe 10 seconds or so).
Last edited by marlinspike; Dec 19, 2009 at 01:11 PM.
So, Abacus had the car for some other work and looked at this while they were at it. They said it's definitely a lifter not pressurizing as quickly as it should and they blame it on my low idle when cold. That answer doesn't really satisfy me because it does it longer the colder it is out, and it's only one valve (I have it narrowed down to one of the two valves for cylinder 7).
How bad is it to leave it like this? The lifter is only $50, but the tools I need to change it (MB proprietary valve spring compressor and go-no-go gauge) are $260. Will waiting until mid-January when I have the money hurt anything?
How bad is it to leave it like this? The lifter is only $50, but the tools I need to change it (MB proprietary valve spring compressor and go-no-go gauge) are $260. Will waiting until mid-January when I have the money hurt anything?
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=221803
NA miata's are notorious for lifter noise, mine devolped it right around 130k, and it will go away if i dont run the miata hard, but as so as i take it to 7k in 1-3, i will devolp the noise, untill i drive normal for a couple off days
NA miata's are notorious for lifter noise, mine devolped it right around 130k, and it will go away if i dont run the miata hard, but as so as i take it to 7k in 1-3, i will devolp the noise, untill i drive normal for a couple off days
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Forged_b18c6
Engine / Exhaust / Drivetrain
22
Apr 29, 2009 12:49 PM
jdm2ltrcpe
Parts ARCHIVE
27
Dec 1, 2008 04:01 PM






