SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
06-22-2009, 07:37 PM
#21
Double Agent HT
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
jesus christ. Who installed the system originally? I'm gonna start taking bets on how long it is before you burn your car down. I wish you were closer so i could fix this for you, or at least look at it to show you all the things that need to be fixed.
06-22-2009, 07:38 PM
#22
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
You can get relays from any parts store, Radio Shack, or the car audio install shops at places like Best Buy. A standard Bosch-type automotive relay will work fine, some have a higher coil impedance which makes the coil current lower. That's a bonus when using a remote turn on from a head unit. Really any relay with connections that can be used with crimp connections will work, just stay away from circuit board mount relays because they'll be harder to install in your application.
You can use a pretty small relay; the fan current is going to be really low compared to the loads most automotive relays are meant to switch. You'll need to switch roughly an amp (or less) and most Bosch relays are rated for 15 to 30 amps. So you could go considerably smaller than that.
You can use a pretty small relay; the fan current is going to be really low compared to the loads most automotive relays are meant to switch. You'll need to switch roughly an amp (or less) and most Bosch relays are rated for 15 to 30 amps. So you could go considerably smaller than that.
Last edited by Fabrik8; 06-22-2009 at 07:44 PM.
06-22-2009, 07:42 PM
#23
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
There are special breakers for DC electrical systems. The car audio marketed breakers are meant to be mounted on a flat surface and have studs to fasten the wire lugs to, so they're simple to install.
06-23-2009, 05:19 AM
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
You can get relays from any parts store, Radio Shack, or the car audio install shops at places like Best Buy. A standard Bosch-type automotive relay will work fine, some have a higher coil impedance which makes the coil current lower. That's a bonus when using a remote turn on from a head unit. Really any relay with connections that can be used with crimp connections will work, just stay away from circuit board mount relays because they'll be harder to install in your application.
You can use a pretty small relay; the fan current is going to be really low compared to the loads most automotive relays are meant to switch. You'll need to switch roughly an amp (or less) and most Bosch relays are rated for 15 to 30 amps. So you could go considerably smaller than that.
You can use a pretty small relay; the fan current is going to be really low compared to the loads most automotive relays are meant to switch. You'll need to switch roughly an amp (or less) and most Bosch relays are rated for 15 to 30 amps. So you could go considerably smaller than that.
I'm about to install my fan this morning and take out my viper alarm system also.
06-23-2009, 11:32 AM
#25
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
i got my breaker from o&p audio in gloucester for 25 bucks. ive had the fuse problem a few times where it looks fine but its not and i was tired of buying fuses so i just bought the breaker. i mounted mine near the fuse box.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0617091841.jpg
that was before i mounted it completely and cleaned up the wire mess.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0617091841.jpg
that was before i mounted it completely and cleaned up the wire mess.
06-23-2009, 01:08 PM
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Double Agent HT
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
if you had the right amp for the job, installed and tuned right, you dont need to president rig in some BS fans for the amp. Just sayin.
06-23-2009, 07:18 PM
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06-23-2009, 08:25 PM
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
Class A/B amps need airflow. How they get it is half the fun.
06-24-2009, 01:47 PM
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Re: SUBS/SPEAKERS AREN'T WORKING!?!
That's not true. If you put amps in an enclosed area with no way for them to convection cool, you need forced airflow. Doesn't matter how they're tuned, etc. I've done more than a few installs that I designed using fans because I knew the amps would get too hot otherwise. It's easy to do and it's often impossible to do the install without them because of the heat rejection.
Class A/B amps need airflow. How they get it is half the fun.
Class A/B amps need airflow. How they get it is half the fun.