Fobby

Do the wheels have hub centric rings for your car?

stinks

what type of wheels are they... some aftermarket wheels have to be balenced by the lug holes.... with a lug centric machine.... if they are factory wheels disregaurd

stinks

balancing takes care of that.....that is not the problem

marlinspike

Impossible to do a burnout? LOL, you don't know the car very well. Hint: there's a reason I said "well, that's what the suspension and chassis are from anyways." At any rate, I haven't done a burn out on these tires yet.

As far as the "rims" not being perfect - there was no shimmy whatsoever before the new tires.

You know, it was the Hunter Road Force Machine, but he didn't Road Force balance them, so maybe that's the problem.

marlinspike

Ronal R9 16x8.

marlinspike

No, they're for this car, hence the strange offset (ET 11), no rings necessary.

On, and I retorqued them, shimmies are still there. What a hassle to take it back. I'll report back next week when I do it and see what they find.

BigandSlow

Should've just had MB do them, I've worked at other places too and the equipment is usually subpar.

Nice car and nice wheels, you've got me curious as to your setup in the old 126.

marlinspike

It was at Auto Haus in Yorktown. MB/BMW/Porsche only (well that and they sell Superformance cars). I went with them specifically because I wanted the two-piece MB weights and the Hunter 9700 machine. It's just my luck is all.

To summarize what's in the car (not everything probably but the important bits)
freshly rebuilt 560 euro engine with repair size 1 10:1 pistons, custom cams, modified fuel injection system (still CIS but higher flow and laptop programmable), custom exhaust complete with tri-y headers, polished and matched porting in the heads (but not ported because we were trying to keep some more bottom end, in retrospect this was a mistake), Ronal R9 16x8s, Bilstein HD shocks. The nice thing about having done this to a 1985 380SE is it only weighs in at 3650lbs.

When it was dyno'd it was a little disappointing (250hp and 265lb-ft at the rear wheels, though it was nice how the torque was above 250lb-ft from the moment the torque converter stabilized at 2000rpm), but since then I have replaced a weak coil (well, a fine but old gen-1 w126 coil with a new gen-2 w126 coil which made acceleration smoother) and a slightly lean injector, plus I forgot to change my air filter before the dyno run. Whenever I have money again, I'm going to re-dyno and see how it does. If I could find a way to get more air it would help - I have a US 560 airbox so I'm thinking maybe I'll put a hose on the currently plugged heat pump opening and run that to the front of the car.

To come once I get money again:
a 3.07 rear end to replace the 2.47 that's in there
a digital MSD so I can map the timing curve (right now its simply 2 degrees beyond what factory spec is throughout the range) (also, looking at the dyno curve I think I would be wel suited by raising the redline from 6000rpm to 6200rpm, and if I bypass the rev limiter on the fuel pump relay I can do this with an MSD)
various coatings (right now headers have Jet Hot, but there's nothing on the intake and valve covers) for heat purposes
Take care of my street tune (right now just has highway cruising and full throttle tuned, so mpg is...lol)

BTW, where do you work? I'm originally from Bethesda MD. I used to recommend Euromotors to people who don't do their own work, but my buddy had brake work done and the car came back with hand-tight bolts on one wheel. Nowadays my go-to recommendation in the area is Mitch Carr in Kensington.

Also, you have any thoughts for me on this: if I touch up all the solder joints on my idle control unit it will work for about week, then go back to giving me a high idle. If I take hte idle control unit board out of the case and flex it, the idle control unit will work properly, but obviously I can't flex the board while driving down the road.

Laserjock

I'd do the simple thing 1st and check the lug nuts are torqued to spec- with a torque wrench. And I dont mean by the impact wrench method. My Miata was very sensitive to this.

***edit*** just read your post about re-torque

I'd look for a cold solder joint on the board and components. It'd look dull gray versus a shiny silver that indicates good heat application. When you mentioned flexing the board, that sent up all kinds of red flags. Or swap a known good unit in.

cheers

marlinspike

Even with my dealer cost + 10% pricing, swapping a good unit is a $350 proposition lol. You can't get good units for these from junkyards anymore.

On the color...theyre just about all dull gray lol.