Ok. I put in some fuel injection cleaner and then filled it up with 93 octane. It starts right up but the car shakes at idle and still misfires. At high rpms it drives fine with no problem but at low rpms there is a loss of power. A guy I talked to said to try BG 44K fuel injection cleaner because he was having the same problem and that fixed it. I still have to check the plugs and wires. Any other suggestions?

 

Distributor, FPR, Fuel pump.

 

Check the fuel filter.....notorious for getting dirty easy, also, make sure no damage was done to the AFM, and check all the coils, if they are individual packs. Make sure that the plugs are secure, in all it might be bad fuel also....good luck.....

 

Maybe bad knock sensor? I found this:

Loss of Power; Rough Running; Knocking: Bad Engine Knock Sensor. A failed knock sensor may be felt as a general weakness throughout the powerband and a different tone to the motor. When no knock sensor signal is detected the EZK ignition system defaults to full spark retard. This can also result in the motor running a little on the rich side, as a kind of side-effect (More ignition advance usually = leaner burn, more NOx emissions; less advance usually = richer burn, more HC and CO emissions.) See Engine Sensors for more information.
Symptoms. Higher idle, no power; running rough at RPM higher than idle. It jerks every few seconds and there is no pattern to it. It idles and starts fine. [Rafael Riverol] Other symptoms include hesitation, poor throttle response, lack of acceleration, especially when cold. [Marc] The car starts fine and will run for 2 miles and then lose power. It never stalls just won't move. If I shut it off and immediately restart it, it will run fine again for another 2 miles and so on and so on. When it runs fine, with a timing light hooked up on acceleration the timing will retard 1 or 2 degrees before it advances. If I check it when the problem is occuring it will retard 6 or 8 degrees before it tries to advance. Solution: new knock sensor.

Diagnosis. Check the knock sensor, it senses knock (no kidding) and retards the timing. When this gets faulty, it will make the engine have very poor power, lousy and jerky acceleration, but will start and idle fine. It's a small black plastic covered unit bolted to the block (ten mil. bolt) under the intake man. with a plug attached to it. One minute to remove. It "listens" to the engine. Mine had a cracked plastic cover and was covered in oil. I put a used one in (new they're ~$40) and it's like I suddenly had a new car.

Mid-Range Engine Knock. Anecdotal evidence notes that if you experience mid-range engine knock when the engine is warm, inspect the airbox thermostat for proper operation. If it sticks in the "warm" position, it allows preheated air into the intake system. This will also, over time, ruin your air mass meter.