english

 

there is always SPG Motorsports....

 

Quote:"EDIT: you can be cheap for a 20B swap and do it with about $6000 if you do it yourself and know where to look".

true....what does a stock 20b swapped in a fd run (1/4M)

 

i doubt anybody who spends the loot on a 20b swap keeps it stock.

 

in an fd? probably considerably more cuz fds can be more complicated but they are essentially the same... 10Gs cheap? i'm not sure... i've only done research for the fc 20b swap really

Well a stock 20b motor in a fd would probably run about 300 horses stock. in a quarter mile, that's like a mid 12 i think. 20bs have serious power, the problem is that not enough people know shit about them and there isn't enough parts to go around on upgrading them. if you get a 20b, you cna pretty much forget aftermarket manifolds, throttle bodies, upgraded internals in the rotary engine itself. not enough parts exist or research has been put into that engine seriously. in reality, forget the 20b and stick with the 13b. i heard about someone getting a 1000horses off a 13b which was INSANE. if you don't believe me, i'm friends with david bunting aka the rotary master around the 757 area. the guys worked on rx7s for over 15 years... he owns 27 rx7s - i counted them. guys super knowledgable and met someone who pushed that much from a 13b. theres more of a practical potential with the 13b over the 20b. trust me, the 20b is sweet and all and if u had it in an rx7, people who piss their pants, but the windows of performance are greatly limited once u hit about 400.

EDIT: i found a shop that does the swap for 35Gs, that's ridiculous because they charged $20,000 in labor. farkin ripoff.

 

Turbo IIs (i.e. FCs) have been known to last over 250,000 miles, Mine has 180,000

 

The biggest problem with the 20B (and all rotaries for that matter) is heat. The issue that is unique to the 20B exists because the three rotors are placed together. The rotor in the middle is harder to cool than the outer two rotors and can lose compression early in life (apex seals) due to the higher stresses. Under boost the 20B can produce 900 HP easily.

It's really not worth the money to do the swap. If you win the lotto or something and have cash burning a hole in your pocket go for it, but, if you are an average working joe you could probable purchase a new C6 for the amount of money you'd likely spend on the swap + RX-7.

 

Here are some questions to ask yourself if you are looking to get a 7. Especially a FD.
1.) Are you going to have alot of disposable income to put towards the car and/or cash on hand in case something breaks?
2.) Is it going to be your daily driver? Can you be without it for 1-2 months at a time?

Remember, its a very simple engine design but it is completly self contained. A new (reman) engine installed will be 5k on average. If you blow an apex seal= 5k, if you blow a coolant seal= 5k, if you blow ANYTHING inside the engine you are looking at around 5k. That isnt noting that its going to take a couple weeks to do the work on the car (engine out and in).

3.) Can you have patience when modding your car?

If you buy a stock FD there are a few things that you need to do called "reliability mods" that are needed before you start loading power onto it. You will also need to go to a standalone ECU very early in the game. They say it should be no later than your 3rd mod (after intake and exhaust). That will cost you another 1200-4000.

All of this can add up very very quickly on you. I would call up Bret (RP) or Pete (PBC) and talk to them about what you want to acomplish first before getting a 7.

 

what are you parting out on the s5?

 

I've never heard that before. If you treat a Turbo II the way it was intended, i.e. speed, then it will only last about 100,000 miles from what I've heard until a new rebuild or new engine is needed.