I agree with vbspec below for your camber. I am not a fan of camber kits however. With stock control arms at my ride height, I'm at -1.9ish in the front, and -1.2ish in the rear.

Have you had any issues with your Skunk2 kit failing? Mine failed while I was in Chicago and I drove all the way home with the alignment way out of spec and destroyed a set of tires. The ball joints slid and it threw my alignment way off. All the bolts were tightened down and it still moved.

 

What about the caster? and is a toe kit needed for the rear? and are just a set of oem inner an outter tie rods will do the trick?

 

Caster isn't really adjustable. You can change it, but you can't "adjust it".

 

thanks, what about tie rods? will a set of OEM tie rods from moog or bap geon do the trick? what about a toe kit for the back. is it needed? i have stock control arms an they will stay that way except for maybe some aftermarket hardrace bushings pressed it if the set comes with them for the rear lca's

 

They holdin up for me

And what a neat little trick it is.

 

Other than flipping your upper control arms right to left, you will have to get a set of custom bushings or a "hardrace" front camber kit from Special Projects Motorsports with their bronze bushing (not for street use) for more caster. But it is not needed at all (for a street car / track toy). Now tie rod ends for the street and occasional track can be picked up at any auto parts store. And no a rear toe kit should not be needed.

And I have the newer Pro kit from Skunk and as they are on my track car they and all the other suspension bolts are checked twice before each event. So no slipping.

Now no car mod will make "you" faster on track. The only way you can get faster is to on track more often.