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Your car shouldn't have been heat soaked after only 9 pulls, esp with a fan. I made 29 pulls at VA speed with no fan just had the door open, now that's heat soak! I never went back for a cool run so I'm sure I'll pick up some power also.
holy shit 29 pulls! over the span of how many hours?
Enlighten me on what this does for you. Ralliart offers a "street" ecu for my car. Did you notice a difference with your ecu?
No one makes a 650cc fuel map for the TTZ. The guy I got the injectors through had a custom map done from Japan. JUN map the original map, which his chip is a copy of. But it required some serious tuning to get the A/F right. I had to richen it from 3000-4200 range, then lean it out big time up top after 4800... was like 8% added low when the turbos start to spool, and 11% removed at the top... Still had about a 12.0-12.5 A/F and that was at the tailpipe, not the downpipe.
Your car shouldn't have been heat soaked after only 9 pulls, esp with a fan. I made 29 pulls at VA speed with no fan just had the door open, now that's heat soak! I never went back for a cool run so I'm sure I'll pick up some power also.
Z's are notorious for getting hot rather quick... you normally have to let it sit idling for a while between runs to cool off. We were running pretty much back to back runs... we did a total of 11 runs in an hour and a half. And we had about a half hour of down time while we were "fixing" boost leaks and things. His FMIC doesn't help coolant temps either... =(
Did you check your intercooler, how far across was the heat? What I'm saying is if your I/C was heat soaked after only 9 pulls you need a bigger one.
It is normally an issue of coolant temperatures... the Z performs optimally at ~170 F. Bobby has a lower temp thermostat to attempt to compensate for the increased heat from higher boost, but his FMIC being in front of his radiator does not help matters. The Z has bad air flow issues to begin with... adding the FMIC to the equation just made things all the worse. =( The engine bay is a little too cramped on the Z32s. Heat has no where to go... You can turn a Z off and let it sit for HOURS, and come back and the block will still be warm. I've driven my car to work in the morning on a normal day (say 60 F outside) and when I get back in for lunch 4-5 hours later, and start it, the coolant is still rather warm inside the block. =(
Re: New Dyno Numbers
