haha yeh thats cool. heres another thing i forgot to mention....with the bad r/s theres way more stress on the cylinder walls which could "eff" u up bad. if u redline your motor like a moron all day then u could end up puttin a piston through a cylinder wall. eventually the cylinder wall could flex or ovalize and from there all kinds of stuff could happen.....oil getting combusted because of the loss of seal and makes your combustion chamber and exuahst ports nasty.

 

you act like people who do these builds are fuckin ignorant, if you dont like ls/vtec leave it at that, ive known just as many people who have blown motors with turbo. im not saying turbo isnt the dopest thing since god gave man pussy, but its not the only fast thing out there

 

who really builds an ls-vtec engine and leaves it stock?

 

dude...your taking this a little to serious and i dont like dealing with people that try and get all hostile over stuff like this...
ls turbo with a well engenered turbo kit is less likely to mess up your engine than some custom pos kit that people put together in their garages... just like if your doing lsvtec conversion by yourself with an old block and a 12 year old vtec head than if you buy a brand new one and get it done professionally (not saying that some people cant put together great engines by themselves or that professionals ALWAYS do the best work)
and YES alot of people that do these conversions are ignorant and have no clue about the geometry of engine building or what their putting together. the other day some kid was givin me shit about lsvtec and i asked him some questions about why he thought it was soooo much better and he really didnt have one logical answer other than vtec vtec vtec. vtec is overrated in some cases....
and jesus christ....im NOT saying that people dont blow motors with turbo.....a ton do. but they are idiots for trying to squeeze way to much boost on stock stuff with a very shitty kit.
later

 

whoa whoa calm down im not getting hostile, i simply said if you dont like ls/vtec leave it at that, see the diffrence is im not putting anything down , im not saying turbos suck, im opening doors to other possibilities, and since i have seen many well built and quick ls/vtecs im more than happy to give them praise, and for a budget they are real good and easily availble cheap horse power, i know in the past there have been a shit load of blown ls/vtec motors, but when turbos first came in the honda world there a shit load of blown turbo motors. your one of those very cloce minded people, especially on a subjet like this. you think cause you read a few articles about how the stroke ratios off, and how you know SSSOOOO many ignorant people building these things, that its bad... do me a favor and go to import review and tell 503 hp ls vtec turbo that his ratio is off and he might wanna reconsider his setup. a matter of fact there are about 30 diffrent dyno run there and look closely to what setup they are, all i wanted to get across is that ls/vtec was a option, i never said turbo couldnt been done later, ls/vtec just gives you a better platform. and why are you comparing a "well engineered turbo kit" to "POS ls/vtec kit", are you implying there is no good way to run the setup? fuck everyone stop what your doing, burn has the solution to our horse power problems... its ignorant comments like yours that get me hostile...
later

 

www.importreview.com

 

Horsepower Potential:
This motor has the potential of doing low 11's at the track in a full raced out all motor setting. I would say, staying at 1.8 liter in the LS block, you could achieve well over 220 HP at the wheels SAE corrected. Ours is over 200 at the wheels and the head is not milled, not ported, not polished, not port matched, and is using stock valve train. It just has some decent cams in it. Ours uses 92 octane also. With race gas and higher compression with a head job, 220 seems easy to hit. Its only 17 HP away from where we are now and we are not using the most advanced cams yet. We are also on the stock GS-R fuel pump. 90
Click on this picture for Chart...

Torque:
This motor pulls in more torque with the same setup than any 1.8 Ltr motor Honda makes...I would say about 8% more torque across the board...Just driving in a straight line, it feels almost like a Prelude motor. Our LS/VTEC has 146 lbs/torque at 200 HP at the wheels. Looking at a Prelude motor, it would have about 160 lbs of torque at 200 HP. 85

Reliability:
Looking at a Prelude motor...the max HP of the Prelude motor would come in at 7200 RPM or so. Max HP of the LS/VTEC will come in at 8200 RPM or so. So the prelude motor would last longer than the LS/VTEC cause the higher you rev the car...the shorter the engine life... But all in all, the motor is as reliable daily as any other motor. As long as you take care in putting the proper rod bearings in it, new oil pump, new water pump, new coolant, oil changes frequently. And make sure you Teflon tape the tapped oil line in the block. It only gets an average rating for reliability because it is a higher revving motor. RPM= Ruin peoples motors. Always will. 75
Almost FULL ITR Interior...

Cost:
Here are the parts you need for a great setup..
B18b/a block.... $600
B18C1 Head...... $1000 VERY hard to get..
ITR pistons..... $250
ALL new bearings.. $300
Block assembly..... $400
Balance crank...... $200
Head gasket....... $55
Re-tap oil line... $100
Skunk2 intake manifold $320
Type-R throttle body.. $250
Wire harness... $200
Shift linkage... $150
ECU.. GSR.... $300
GS-R tranny... $750
Fuel Regulator + Guage $175 installed.
Cam Gears... $250 installed.
Type-R cams.. $450 installed.
Valve Adjustment.. $50
Motor installation... $800
Intake manifold gasket..$25
Oil/filter.. $15
Axles... $200
Header...4-1 $297
Cold are intake.. $225
New timing belt. $80
New oil pump... $150
New water pump... $150
Dyno Tuning.. $100
270 CC Injectors.. $200 or used prelude..$100
Apex V-AFC controller..$320
6 puck clutch $350
Resurface flywheel.... $30
and there you have it....a setup with mostly all Honda parts...total bill for that: about...$8542 Now if you were to substitute pistons, rods, and port/polish the head. Then you have a REAL beast on your hands...ready to take on just about anything but motorcycles on the street. That's a FULLY built, no skimping motor you have there. Nobody said going all-motor and being super fast is cheap. That is why the low rating on cost.
60

**Our LS/VTEC did 13.2 at the track when it was pulling down 180 HP at the wheels. Also it looks like a Type-R head, but it is a GS-R head with red valve cover. Remember, you don't need crazy head porting or DFI to make good power. Our motor has no head milling, no porting, no polishing, no port matching, and stock valve train. That is also A Skunk2 manifold that was added after that race where it did consistent 13.2's at 180 HP.

And to you people who don't think stock rods are good...we are using STOCK LS rods with no shot peening and the rev limiter is at 8600 RPM. We have hit that mark hundreds of times. And this car drove to Sacramento (8 hours each way) raced, then drove all the way home with no incident. How is that for reliability?

Is a GS-R head better than a B16A head on an LS/VTEC? Its hard to say...I guess we will have to test it!

**Update: Our LS/VTEC did 12.0@110 in 1.8 ltr form until we retired it in favor of the B20/VTEC. It had 223@ the wheels and 142 lbs of torque to do this time. The car weighed in an 2000.

Maintenance:
I recommend getting some Mobil 1 motor oil after the first 1,000 mile break in period. That with some good Bosch model #4227 Platinum plugs and you should be good for a long time. Redline water wetter coolant additive also helps. Check the fuel pressure once in a while and make sure its normal or did not come loose. To get a 100, it has to be a stock motor. 95

 

Summary:
This is a costly setup, but the final result is very satisfying and very fast. All motor HP is stronger than turbo HP or supercharged HP...its a debate but trust me...it is..2 cars the same weight with exactly same tranny...and 200 at the wheels. The all motor car will win every time. Or at least it should. Nothing is 100%. Nowadays, it is not all about going fast alone...it is about HOW you are going so fast...anyone can put a turbo on and go fast. And for gas mileage and daily driving, the all-motor setup is going to be the winner. Currently at around 200 HP at the wheels and about 147 lb/torque our LS/VTEC is going to get some better cams, some valve train and a ported head soon after that. Then some Pistons. What fun this can be!

 

haha why are you argueing with me about something i agreed with..... i agreed that BUILT lsvtecs arent bad... what i was refering to is stock.....which i seriously doubt this kid (and alot of kids around here) are gonna want to spend all that time and money for an allmotor car runnin 200 hp. there are many better all motor setups than this. i was simply implying (along with other people on this thread) that ls turbo is easy cheaper and a hell of a lot faster. so thank you for making me read your long ass post that u copied from a website only for me to agree with it as i did earlier...
btw....a built ls turbo will eat anything built all motor that you will EVER throw at it. like the guy said earlier. theres the perfectly streetable civic hatch runnin 10's on an ls with a block gaurd (and thats it)

 

hahaha......your funny.