Sometimes I forget you have a 240.... =X



BTW, OP, I have a Bride ERGO I I'm trying to sell. Holler at a pimp if you're interested.

 

Man up and a get a rx7. FC's are where its at. And you don't have to worry about going to a car show and seeing someone with the exact same build as you. It just never happens.

 

and have to drift other people's cars because someones has been in the shop since like '99....good year too....

 

cause the other one broke down on the way there

 

I fall there......

Vlsd, coilovers, or motorset (needs harness) first? I CANT DECIDE!

 

This thread is turning into bitch fest 2006....someone tell me what catergory I fall into, lol...I want to know.


As far as keeping this post on topic. If you want to meet up I am willing to. I honestly think every motor has great potential, the RB20 is great because I am pretty sure w/ a little head work you can rev those things to like 10k because of the stroke/bore ratio. Also, just like a stock SR you need a FMIC, exhaust and boost controler before you need a tune or anything else, the stock ECUs are made to adjust a little for small changes in air flow - everyone who has an SR should know this. However, I am unsure as to how much boost you can push out of the stock turbo (I thought they had T3s...so a little bigger than a T25 - so you should be able to turn the boost up to around 12-13psi stock w/ a FMIC and exhaust and make nice numbers, w/ stock everything). If you do get a wideband and a FPR you can make sure you're not going to pop your motor . So spend 200-250 bucks on a wide band, 40 bucks on a boost controler (electronics are known for messing up, manual is simple and the way to go), like 100 on a FPR (honestly don't know how much they cost - make sure to get one WITH a gauge built into it at least). And if you don't have a boost guage buy one of those, as well as a real temerature gauge...trust me if something ever happens to your car like...an idle problem, you won't have to keep guessing what the problem is and you'll be able pin point it much easier w/ guages. Dispite popular belief...guages have a function, they are not there to look pretty, lol. I don't see why you couldn't put at most around 600-800 dollars into the car and make a nice 230-260whp, you can do that do an SR so I can only assume you can do it to an RB20 was well, it just might take some imagination on your part. I'd also highly reccomend getting an aftermarket intake manifold - you can pick them up for around 400-600 bucks - as the stock one looks like ass, and the aftermarket one will help flow a shit ton.

 

I've said it a million times.

RB20 aftermarket support is adaquate.
Tuners are out there.
It is only more expensive because you are buying 6 of everything instead of 4
SR is only only a margionalally newer design, and rb20 design is superior in a number of ways, specifically in valve actuation and bottom end geometry.

If I decide that honda's are not a cool as I rembember them, I will build another rb20 car. Maybe an RB20 sleighty.

Don't believe everything you read on a forum. Contact venders and people who actually own the motors and have done what you want to do and you will find that 99.3% of the stuff sr/ka/ls owners say about rb20dets is bullshit.

 

Kinda what im figuring out as well by acctually doing some research.

 

Okay, stupid question.....what wheel offest do I need for the car?
Can I use a wheel that has +40 offest?
If not, whats reccomended, also does the fact that I have 300ZX
rotors and brakes, does that make a difference.

 

--------------------------------15 offset is best with 215s on a x 10 rims just kidding...

depends on how agressive you want to be and how much you want to spend on tires and suspension. You can have the look without being to agressive.