i feel ya. i guess easy shouldnt have been the word to use. maybe less complicated if you take the guess work outof makin things fit shouldve have been said in place.
and trust me i know theres alot more then what i know about building an engine. im not an engine builder by far, but i will/and have put my engine together. been running for well over a year now. its not built by any means. but i broke it down sent to a shop have everything checked out. got stuff measure and other saftey precautions were done. after that i followed the factory manual. my first engine i worked on. but then again im pretty car smart and have the gutz to do it.

but i feel ya, its definately not somethin id like to get underpaid to do. and i wouldnt wanna teach someone who knew nothing about it.

but i do think that if he wanted to tackle this project he should do what i said earlier

 

I had allready advised him of that Tre.

 

 

so basically take it to napa and let them build it...purpose of all of this is 4 me 2 learn...im tryin 2 get hands on....cant do that if i have sum1 else build it 4 me...

 

hands on was my goal...

 

The OP wants someone to show him how to rebuild an LS. What i "think" is irrelevant, what i know is, assembling an LS isn't hard when you put it on the scale next to any other motor. A "rebuild" can usually be done with off the shelf products, in my experiance.

But hey, I guess Tre got lucky....that his motor runs. Same thing for all the other "hobbiest" who have assembled/built their own engines, i guess they have all been lucky since they are not the GREAT engine builder you are.

You have taken this way out of context and it seems to me you are doing nothing more than trying to act "Holier than thou!" If you aren't going to help the guy, you really don't need to post. (here is my thumbs-up for you)

 

It's the fact that he wanted to pay less for some one to show him how to do it when he should be paying more.

But I agree that rebuilding an engine and designing one to suit your needs are two completely different things.

 

how much more do ppl want 2 teach me how 2 build a bottom end...rephrase that...put all oem internals in a bare block...

 

Start with what I said

You need a dial bore gauge sized to measure the inside journals of the rods and main journals, as well as the cylinder bore.

You need micrometers to measure the crank journals for the rods and mains.

You also need a gauge to measure out of round. This will allow you to get the play set properly using a factory rebuild kit including the thrust washers. It will also allow you to check the concentricity of the crank journals.

Once you know everything is sized properly, you have the correct thrust spacing, etc., it's a fairly simple matter of bolting it together. On the rods and mains, you'll use oil or similar as a thread lubricant, so you get the proper torque. Hasting rings out of the package are fine for a "stock" rebuild. They'll seal fine. Don't use low-tension (high performance), as you don't know enough to make them seal properly. Assuming the machine shop does good on the bore honing, to get them to match each individual piston with .002 to .0025 piston to wall clearance, you'll probably be fine. (Check that with the factory service manual, of course!)

You'll want to measure your piston to deck clearance, and make sure it's right. Then dis-assemble it, because it won't be 100% where you want it likely, and have the block decked, then do it all again! As you can't guarantee clearances in a crank or rod journal, simply by measuring, you use plastigauge to ensure it's correct. A strip all the way around will tell you how close it is, and how much you need to open it up, to get it right. Odds are, you won't need to adjust it to be within tolerance, but, for instance, if you're running an LS/VTEC, and oil pressure is a concern, it may be more critical to ensure the tolerances are tight, rather than loose, to give the maximum pressure, or if you're running a 40 weight or 50 weight oil, due to high expected constant temps, such as a road race environment, it may need to be built more loosely, to allow the oil to get where it should.

Of course, looser is always faster, but at the expense of longevity. Too loose, and it has enough movement and force to break the "sheer" of the oil, and hit the bearing surface. Too tight, you may not get enough oil in it. Run a cheap oil, or a non-synthetic oil, with a loose tolerance, and perhaps it kills the motor.....

In Tre's case, the machine shop he went to, took time (for an amount of money, I'm sure) to measure and machine, as well as mark, every part for him. Then, he saved a few $$ by putting it together himself. Perhaps, he saved a couple of hours labor. And, assuming he knew enough to double-check behind the shop, and put it together properly, and torque the bolts right, with the proper methods, it probably works well. Of course, assuming the shop did the work right!

But hey, we're not trying to tell you not to do so, and not to learn it. Only that, if you want it cheap, you'll get what you're paying for.

BTW, I, for one, am not on a level high enough to build a NASCAR racing engine, but give me 6 months, with the technology they have to work with, and I can get there!

And for some of you who want some interesting thoughts: What is better, a port, properly sized for a 31mm valve, that flows a peak of 270 CFM, at .400 lift, or a port, properly sized for a 33mm valve, that flows a peak of 270 CFM at .400 lift, given that the flow #'s are even?

QuickVIII, please feel free to answer that in PM, as I know you know the answer. There might be a few of the others who could guess right, but you're one of the few I've seen who could tell me why!

 

To bLu92bubbLe, I would take my advice from Verbal. He has given us the only thumbs up so far and Thats good enough for me. He is a far better engine builder than myself. Sorry for you thread being hijacked.
To Verbal, I am pleased to meet someone who is at your level of engine building expertise! I have always wanted to be At your level. Please if there is ever an opening at your facility, for even a janitor, I would love to work for free just to maybe gain some experience just watching you work.
To HondaRules, Thanks for another voice of sanity. I know Verbal will be able to enlighten us beyond our level of comprehension but I'll take the 31 I like my engines to pull from the lower RPM's up.