Fastest track
It's an auto, so you can really only powerbrake a stock automatic transmission so much, and you can only launch but so high unless you're neutral dropping it. If so, hahahahaha....
What kind of tires? Leave the front tires alone. Put them back to 32-34.
If you're running drag radials go down to like 16 and see if that helps. Something tells me you are doing something on the launch wrong though. Are you lining up with the groove, doing a good burnout beforehand (if using dr's)? What rpm are you launching at, does the car seem to be bogging out of the hole or are you getting too much wheelspin?
Answer those questions and maybe we can actually give some decent advice.
It's frustrating when you can't get the car to do what you think it's capable of, trust me I know. Practice practice practice!
If you're running drag radials go down to like 16 and see if that helps. Something tells me you are doing something on the launch wrong though. Are you lining up with the groove, doing a good burnout beforehand (if using dr's)? What rpm are you launching at, does the car seem to be bogging out of the hole or are you getting too much wheelspin?
Answer those questions and maybe we can actually give some decent advice.
It's frustrating when you can't get the car to do what you think it's capable of, trust me I know. Practice practice practice!
Sounds like it either needs a stall, or gears, or nitrous, lol. Gettin to 86 shouldn't be to much of a problem runnin a 7.999 at 86 might be a problem, unless you can pull out the mad 1.6 or lower 60 foot.
Nitto555r on the rear. I try and do a good burnout but the whole ass end vibrates and hops because I've taken the friction modifier oil out of the rear and running straight 90w rearend oil. I'm launching at 1700rpm, with the stock stall. I dont think it bogs any, I just cant get it in my powerband fast enough with the stock rearend gears and stall. How does my mph look? I think I can get it up to 85-86mph with a good run and shifting at the right time.
stall will be next. Maybe a pulley swap 3.9 to a 3.4= about 5 more pounds of boost and quicker spool on the supercharger. That should take me up to around 360 to the wheels if the air charge stays cool. Then there is the matter of installing my methanol injection. I just hope mu fuel pump can hang with the added pressure.
1. Gears. Read you had 3.55's, lower gearing would help a ton in the 1/8th
2. Torque Converter. Go for like a 2500 stall converter maybe
3. Tune. If you are tuning off of "guidelines" from others results, I would get a wideband, rig up some knock headphones or electronic knock sensor, and a datalogger, then tune with those tools. Timing is obviously important, but it's a safer bet to go with more conservative timing and higher boost, nets lower peak cylinder pressure.
With those three things, and race gas on top of it, you could easily break 7's imo.
Strip time is important, but only so much you can do to improve an auto assuming you have traction. The launch is pretty straight forward, load up and get your timing down pat, then shift at the right time. I guess that brings up another thing, do you have a "shift kit" to improve your shifts?
2. Torque Converter. Go for like a 2500 stall converter maybe
3. Tune. If you are tuning off of "guidelines" from others results, I would get a wideband, rig up some knock headphones or electronic knock sensor, and a datalogger, then tune with those tools. Timing is obviously important, but it's a safer bet to go with more conservative timing and higher boost, nets lower peak cylinder pressure.
With those three things, and race gas on top of it, you could easily break 7's imo.
Strip time is important, but only so much you can do to improve an auto assuming you have traction. The launch is pretty straight forward, load up and get your timing down pat, then shift at the right time. I guess that brings up another thing, do you have a "shift kit" to improve your shifts?
1. Gears. Read you had 3.55's, lower gearing would help a ton in the 1/8th
2. Torque Converter. Go for like a 2500 stall converter maybe
3. Tune. If you are tuning off of "guidelines" from others results, I would get a wideband, rig up some knock headphones or electronic knock sensor, and a datalogger, then tune with those tools. Timing is obviously important, but it's a safer bet to go with more conservative timing and higher boost, nets lower peak cylinder pressure.
With those three things, and race gas on top of it, you could easily break 7's imo.
Strip time is important, but only so much you can do to improve an auto assuming you have traction. The launch is pretty straight forward, load up and get your timing down pat, then shift at the right time. I guess that brings up another thing, do you have a "shift kit" to improve your shifts?
2. Torque Converter. Go for like a 2500 stall converter maybe
3. Tune. If you are tuning off of "guidelines" from others results, I would get a wideband, rig up some knock headphones or electronic knock sensor, and a datalogger, then tune with those tools. Timing is obviously important, but it's a safer bet to go with more conservative timing and higher boost, nets lower peak cylinder pressure.
With those three things, and race gas on top of it, you could easily break 7's imo.
Strip time is important, but only so much you can do to improve an auto assuming you have traction. The launch is pretty straight forward, load up and get your timing down pat, then shift at the right time. I guess that brings up another thing, do you have a "shift kit" to improve your shifts?
To the guy running the Nittos... The R888 is a very similar tire from Toyo that's getting really good reviews from a lot of people running high horse power street cars... Price is a little better too. So that might be something you would want to check out. Either way, just letting you know.







