95RogueM3...that is a nice looking OBS F250. Looks like it is in great shape.

 

Allright alright, I'm learning...so if i were in the market for a straight axle what are my options? What would they come from? Is a straight axle like a pivot? The two wheels go up and down and twist..instead of the IFS compressing on one side and dropping off on the other? I don't see any improvement in ride quality if I where to rip out the IFS... How big of a job is it do do the swap and would my rear end stay the same? WOuld an axle bolt directly up to the exsisting drive line and transfer case and all that stuff..I bought the truck for 850 bucks I have a feeling I'm going to be throwing allot more at it just for this... is it worth it? If I were to sell it down the road.....?

Thanks for your help!!!!

 

Ride quality is going to suffer somewhat but not much. As far as how involved it is going to be, well it requires some fairly serious fabrication. If you are not good with a welder and don't have a good 220V one, I would leave the actual labor for a pro. Expect to spend more on a dana 60 front than you paid for the truck if you spent 850 on it.

You said before that all you want is a truck that is tall to cruise the streets, in that case I would stick to the twin I beam.

 

a straight axle or solid axle is essentially just what it sounds like. it is one solid axle from left to right. there is a differential or pumpkin in the center or offset to the left or to the right of center that houses your ring and pinion as well as a locker or limited slip, etc. Older chevy straight axle trucks use leaf sprung axles which are spring packs in a half elliptical shape. Other manufacturers used coil spring setups with a three link or four link setup. With a solid axle application as one tire tucks or compresses the other will still drop down to maintain traction. You can actually get a lot more movement(in most cases) from a solid axle application than with ifs. You could go with a Dana 44 or a Dana 60 depending on what application youre looking for(1/2 ton, 3/4 ton or 1 ton) as well as different lug patterns and options. You can keep your factory rear axle and in most cases your factory transfer case with the swap you just have to find an axle with the same pass or driver side diff offset. You can either buy the brackets to hang a leaf sprung setup or fab some up and I have also sean custom coil buckets built to swap a solid axle in. Its definitely worth it as far as reliability is concerned not too mention less parts for wear and tear. Down the road if you were to sell it, it would pull a bit more money because of the solid axle swap.

Any more questions feel free to ask.

 

Every time I see that truck, I want it more and more.....


-- 3" body lift, and 3" Bilstein Suspension lift in the front. AAL in the rear on 33" TSLs w/ 15x10 American Racing wheels..
Probably going to lose the bodylift if I ever get around to SASing the damn thing.

 

Thanks! It is in great shape...just broke 102k miles.

Everything is for sale at the right price.

As it is now, I am thinking about getting rid of the boggers (too damn impractical and loud) and get something aggressive but a bit more streetable.

 

MMM MMM OBS F250. Price?

 

I'm gettin an 98 ext cab 4.3 4wd to daily and beat around on here in a bit... Anyone got any lift suggestions for me? And what about wheels and tires? You'll have to excuse my noobness b/c I'm used to slammin/baggin trucks... This truck is being handed to me so why not do somethin right?

 

I have 33X12.5 BFG Mud Terrain KM2s on my Jeep right now. Pretty aggressive, decent hum but not a bogger hum. You may want to look into them.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I will look into those as well as the MT selections (Claw Radial, or MTZ)