yea, but it did it with my stock fuel pump and my walboro

 

your car hates you.

 

For shits and giggles do a compression test.

It sounds to me like fuel, not enough spark, or to little timing.

You have an inline or intank and which model?
Are you running colder plugs or stock?

My car kinda stutters like that every now and then at low rpms I just get over it.

 

intake walboro 255, stock plugs

 

its the timing

 

check the timing, check your valve adjustment. another note, get a can of carb cleaner and spray your whole engine bay down while the car is running....if it bogs, you have a vacuum leak. Not necessarily fits your symptoms, but just something to check. When you did your distributor, did you replace the rotor as well? if all that is good, i would check compression. Honda motors are imfamous for cracking #3 piston. If all this checks out good, start replacing sensors.

 

spraying your entire engine bay down with carb cleaner while the engine is running will likely result in a fire. is a scantool available? if so check O2 voltage when its bogging, if its low its from a lack of fuel. ive seen cars with cats that were restricted when they where warmed up but not when the were cold. loosen an exhaust pipe or remove the o2 sensor before the convertor to let the exhuast leak out, if this stops the bogging then replace the convertor.

 

You can hear a vacuum leak by the loud hissing/whining sound it makes. Spraying a flamable solvent on a hot motor is foolish when all you need is your ears

 

spraying carb cleaner on a hot motor is foolish. I figured he had common sense. Dont spray a hot motor. Spray when its cold, and this technique is widely used.....and it does work.

 

it does sound like an intermittent timing issue....


do you have access to and know how to operate a labscope? if so , i can tell you what to look for in the ign patterns to see what is going on.

possible you have interference on the CMP signal, and it is freaking out sending timing all over the place. setting your base timing merely gives it a reference point...it can control 30ish degrees from there.....the ECU that is. checking the CMP signal wht a labscope and hooking to the secondary ign. and see what the patterns are....


exp since you said it was there before boost, and before the other dist. too.

you running a SAFC or any other electronics that go into the ECU? and is it the same ECU that came with the car? give me some insight, and i would be glad to rack my brain for you.

as for the vac. leak detection comment...i do that often, but you need to use some common sense while doing that .....i have a propane enrichment setup that works well for that too.....or my smoke machine for vac. leaks. it kicks ass!!!