View Poll Results: procharger kit,or turbo kit
Go with the turbo!!!



43
68.25%
Blower all the way!!!



20
31.75%
Voters: 63. You may not vote on this poll
If you had a Built 306 Block.....what would you do?
BoostLag the reason that everyone is downing your choice in blocks is that at around the 550rwhp point they tend to fail. That goes for a stock production block, Mexico block, Sportsman block, etc. Basically any "2-bolt main" block. There was a Ford Motorsport block (called the A4 block due to its Ford part number) that had upgraded structure and 4-bolt mains but it went out of production a few years back. The newer "Motorsport" block is the Sportsman block, and although advetised to support up to 600 hp, is a little iffy at best at that level. Everyone agrees that the "R" block is the "best" foundation (along with forged crank, rods, pistons) but you pay a premium for it to include machine work since they come unfinished new. A more recent 4-bolt alternative is the Dart block and has been getting favorable reviews.
Cylinder heads is a stumbling block for most folks. The camshaft and heads should be chosen together. There's no sense in putting in a 0.600" lift cam if the head flow falls off after 0.550". Follow? Since you're planning on using forced induction of some sort then you can get away with a smaller head port volume and still have great results. It all really revolves around the cam choice. Talk to a knowledgeable engine builder before you buy parts. It will save you tons of $$.
If it were ME and I wanted a 500rwhp car I would get a DSS 331/347 long block with AFR 185's and a Comp blower cam. Add a Holley intake and a Vortech/ATI/Paxton blower and hit the dyno for a tune. At that level I'd most likely need to upgrade the fuel system but it would be close with a 255lph in-tank, 255 T-Rex external pump, aftermarket rails and at least a 42# injector. The 8.8 rearend would be fine for me with some 31 spline axles and a truetrac differential (as long as I had the axle tubes welded up for some 1/4 mile hits on slicks). The subframe connectors with quality upper and lower control arms would be a good idea too along with that TKO500 trans you mentioned earlier.
Whatever YOU decide, it will work out. Half the fun is gaining the experience right?
Cylinder heads is a stumbling block for most folks. The camshaft and heads should be chosen together. There's no sense in putting in a 0.600" lift cam if the head flow falls off after 0.550". Follow? Since you're planning on using forced induction of some sort then you can get away with a smaller head port volume and still have great results. It all really revolves around the cam choice. Talk to a knowledgeable engine builder before you buy parts. It will save you tons of $$.
If it were ME and I wanted a 500rwhp car I would get a DSS 331/347 long block with AFR 185's and a Comp blower cam. Add a Holley intake and a Vortech/ATI/Paxton blower and hit the dyno for a tune. At that level I'd most likely need to upgrade the fuel system but it would be close with a 255lph in-tank, 255 T-Rex external pump, aftermarket rails and at least a 42# injector. The 8.8 rearend would be fine for me with some 31 spline axles and a truetrac differential (as long as I had the axle tubes welded up for some 1/4 mile hits on slicks). The subframe connectors with quality upper and lower control arms would be a good idea too along with that TKO500 trans you mentioned earlier.

Whatever YOU decide, it will work out. Half the fun is gaining the experience right?
Last edited by 91se-r; Jan 12, 2006 at 09:30 AM.
Originally Posted by 91se-r
If it were ME and I wanted a 500rwhp car I would get a DSS 331/347 long block with AFR 185's and a Comp blower cam. Add a Holley intake and a Vortech/ATI/Paxton blower and hit the dyno for a tune. At that level I'd most likely need to upgrade the fuel system but it would be close with a 255lph in-tank, 255 T-Rex external pump, aftermarket rails and at least a 42# injector. The 8.8 rearend would be fine for me with some 31 spline axles and a truetrac differential (as long as I had the axle tubes welded up for some 1/4 mile hits on slicks). The subframe connectors with quality upper and lower control arms would be a good idea too along with that TKO500 trans you mentioned earlier. 
?

?
Originally Posted by NFCstang
Agreed...but I'd still like the turbo for fun
edit: What I mean is the additional up front cost for the turbo vs. the blower. The turbo would leave more room for growth but at 550rwhp it seems to me that the blower is a better value.
Last edited by 91se-r; Jan 12, 2006 at 09:52 AM.
Originally Posted by 91se-r
It might be fun but, unless you fabricate the kit yourself, it is much more expensive to go turbo. Also for the power goal that he has in mind the turbo is a little overkill IMO since you would only have to spin it 6psi or so.
No..I agree with all that. If I had the money and the ability to buy and build a "just for fun" car it would be a 347/351 TT Mustang....
Hmmmmmmm....a stroked 351 with TT....or a 408..yea...that's the stuff
You should contact and engine builder like George Coleman of Cams Racing(804-693-3623).
I have had a few engines I now have a Dart block with Scat crank and rods.
Find out what crank,rods and pistions you are getting from DSS. I dont think you will be happy with what you are going to recieve.
Everyone else is correct about a stock block, a sportsman is better but I would not go over 600 hp with that. You should talk to some people before you wast your money. If you want to go fast call george and he will give you some good advice.
I have had a few engines I now have a Dart block with Scat crank and rods.
Find out what crank,rods and pistions you are getting from DSS. I dont think you will be happy with what you are going to recieve.
Everyone else is correct about a stock block, a sportsman is better but I would not go over 600 hp with that. You should talk to some people before you wast your money. If you want to go fast call george and he will give you some good advice.
Will you really save money by having a race engine shop build you a street engine over mail order? That's going a little overboard don't you think? All we are really talking about here is 400hp on the motor and 10#'s of boost. I could see if he needed an R block machined or something.
Corral.net is the Mustang site I spend most of my time on. You will learn, from being on that site for any amount of time, that Jay Allen of Camshaft Innovations (www.camshaftinnovations.com) is an experienced engine builder. Tell him your goals and he will tell you everything you need and he will also custom grind a cam to suit your needs perfectly.
He has made many cams for many people on that site and they will ALL vouch for his ability to make what YOU want.
Vincent.
He has made many cams for many people on that site and they will ALL vouch for his ability to make what YOU want.
Vincent.
Thread Starter
Bowtie Bound?? ;)
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Ft. Story,Virginia Beach,VA



Originally Posted by 91se-r
BoostLag the reason that everyone is downing your choice in blocks is that at around the 550rwhp point they tend to fail. That goes for a stock production block, Mexico block, Sportsman block, etc. Basically any "2-bolt main" block. There was a Ford Motorsport block (called the A4 block due to its Ford part number) that had upgraded structure and 4-bolt mains but it went out of production a few years back. The newer "Motorsport" block is the Sportsman block, and although advetised to support up to 600 hp, is a little iffy at best at that level. Everyone agrees that the "R" block is the "best" foundation (along with forged crank, rods, pistons) but you pay a premium for it to include machine work since they come unfinished new. A more recent 4-bolt alternative is the Dart block and has been getting favorable reviews.
Cylinder heads is a stumbling block for most folks. The camshaft and heads should be chosen together. There's no sense in putting in a 0.600" lift cam if the head flow falls off after 0.550". Follow? Since you're planning on using forced induction of some sort then you can get away with a smaller head port volume and still have great results. It all really revolves around the cam choice. Talk to a knowledgeable engine builder before you buy parts. It will save you tons of $$.
If it were ME and I wanted a 500rwhp car I would get a DSS 331/347 long block with AFR 185's and a Comp blower cam. Add a Holley intake and a Vortech/ATI/Paxton blower and hit the dyno for a tune. At that level I'd most likely need to upgrade the fuel system but it would be close with a 255lph in-tank, 255 T-Rex external pump, aftermarket rails and at least a 42# injector. The 8.8 rearend would be fine for me with some 31 spline axles and a truetrac differential (as long as I had the axle tubes welded up for some 1/4 mile hits on slicks). The subframe connectors with quality upper and lower control arms would be a good idea too along with that TKO500 trans you mentioned earlier.
Whatever YOU decide, it will work out. Half the fun is gaining the experience right?
Cylinder heads is a stumbling block for most folks. The camshaft and heads should be chosen together. There's no sense in putting in a 0.600" lift cam if the head flow falls off after 0.550". Follow? Since you're planning on using forced induction of some sort then you can get away with a smaller head port volume and still have great results. It all really revolves around the cam choice. Talk to a knowledgeable engine builder before you buy parts. It will save you tons of $$.
If it were ME and I wanted a 500rwhp car I would get a DSS 331/347 long block with AFR 185's and a Comp blower cam. Add a Holley intake and a Vortech/ATI/Paxton blower and hit the dyno for a tune. At that level I'd most likely need to upgrade the fuel system but it would be close with a 255lph in-tank, 255 T-Rex external pump, aftermarket rails and at least a 42# injector. The 8.8 rearend would be fine for me with some 31 spline axles and a truetrac differential (as long as I had the axle tubes welded up for some 1/4 mile hits on slicks). The subframe connectors with quality upper and lower control arms would be a good idea too along with that TKO500 trans you mentioned earlier.

Whatever YOU decide, it will work out. Half the fun is gaining the experience right?
now you made a lot of very solid points...now from the get go i had heard people using DSS racing blocks,and having good outcomes with them..shit..i even picked up a Recent 5.0 mag,where the guy had a foxbody,vortech blower,DSS 306,running 11.2 in the quarter,which in the magazine,they said equaled out to about 500rwhp or more...i didnt hear anything about DSS being bad,or throwing together shitty blocks...so i think im going to Stick to what i saw,and my research.
as far as the heads...im probably going to order a set of TF twisted wedge 185's tonite,or tommorow...i already bought the GT40 intakes..and a lot of people said it wouldnt keep up with the flow rate of the heads,and im pretty sure it wont..but its better than stock,and later down the line,when i feel like upgrading,ill get a Track heat intake,or something that has better runners.
but that information really put me a step ahead of the game...once again..thanks.
my next step after i order the heads,is to get an MSD 6AL box,blaster coil,new cap,wires,and then start on my fuel...ill probably work on the short block last,seeing as that is the most important part of my project.



